anet a8 plus y axis problem 3d models

I designed some custom parts to eliminate play on the smooth rods of my Anet A8, which required M3x10mm screws and M3 nuts. These upper parts replace the original acrylic frame components. I created two versions: one set provides bearing support for...

A redesigned X axis for the Anet A8 has been created. The nut recesses for the brass M3 bolts are intended for nylock M3 nuts. Due to the motor being on the front, a Z endstop cannot be used with this design. A bed levelling sensor will need to be...

This a cover for the Anet ET4 Y axis. ...Print as given.

You'll also need to add some M3 washers, which shouldn't be a problem for most Anet users who have plenty of extras lying around. ... Don't forget to update your firmware with the correct offset (37mm): define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 37 define...

If the printed part doesn't fit snugly into the Anet-A8 frame, a small amount of hot glue can help secure it without causing damage. Keep in mind that I haven't yet tested this design myself due to a shortage of filament. Check the measurements...

Anet A6-A8 tabla gt2 kayıs gergisi.

Hey! I just tweaked this by shifting things over so the belt can run in parallel. ...Big thanks go out to Gear_Down_For_What for making those publishing files available - it only took a couple of seconds to get everything lined up.

The reinforcement is now expertly crafted with smooth curves, a far cry from its predecessor's jagged appearance. To ensure a secure fit for the motor, you'll want to use longer M3 screws - I opted for 16 mm long ones myself. ...Alternatively, you can...

I'm printing this for a project on Thingiverse under ID 2640020. When I printed my model, the screw and plate were incredibly snug, making them impossible to turn by hand. ...A 22mm wrench proved to be just enough to loosen them, but it's not the only...

I attempted a remix of an elfco's good design, but the parts snapped each time I tried printing it in PLA. This version uses any standard M6 bolt (mine is about 50mm long) and matching nut instead, and includes an outer frame to protect the main body...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4441076 presented a thumb screw to replace the wing nut on the front-left corner of the BIBO bed. It is too wide for the other two positions. I have created a smaller version to fit the right-front corner and the...

Hello, as previously anticipated, it's crucial to produce multiple parts for reinforcing the A-NET on the front installation. Unfortunately, I'm unsure how many tensioners are required since they may not be strong enough or might necessitate an...

I designed a simple holder to keep the hotbed cables out of your printing space, thereby preventing any original cabling from getting tangled with them.

A polished finish is essential, unlike the previous model with its harsh lines and unappealing appearance. To securely fasten the motor, you will require extended M3 screws - I found that 16mm long screws worked perfectly. ...Alternatively, you can...

Swapped the factory board for an skr e3 v2, factory motor keeps getting too hot, even at 50 milliamps. I have tried everything I can think of to get the motor to operate at normal temperature (switched polarity around, lowered current in firmware,...

The screws used should be 3.5mm diam. The holes are 4mm, to account for shrinkage in PLA under normal conditions. ...The base is 8mm deep, so the screws should be >8mm long at least and the heads should be >3.5mm.

You need 2psc.

I really liked where this design was headed, it was classic and understated. ...To give it a bit more substance, I decided to bump up the thickness of the mounting plate by just 1mm and add some subtle fillets and strategically placed holes for added...

I spotted that my trusty belt tensioner is plagued by vibration while in use. I'd like to take advantage of someone else's operating time, but the original design doesn't mesh with the size of holes on my printer. My printer boasts 7.62 mm thick...

This thing was made with Tinkercad. ...Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3EQKqKI8meW

This thing was created using Tinkercad's powerful design capabilities. ...Make your own edits directly on this link - https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3EQKqKI8meW

Place the square end on the y axis rails, lower the z axis, so the x axis rails compress the 'spring' of the tool. Print two of these alignment tools, one for each rail, so you can compare each side ensuring things have been trammed. ... Works...

After assembling your anet a8, you may have noticed that the Y-axis belt runs in a triangular path. The mounting point to the bed is set too high, which prevents the belt from running straight from the motor to the pulley/belt tensioner. This design...

It is compatible with the Anet Hulk Frame Brace, which can be found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2189694. For part two, it needs to be rotated 180 degrees and printed with support. You will need a longer screw (M3 - 25mm) and a shorter...

This will stop your Z Axis from falling down when your printer is off but won't prevent your z-axis from moving because your motors overpower it. Install if you have a squashed first layer - make sure to clean that off where it rubs on the shaft...

This will stop your Z Axis from falling down when printer is off but doesn't prevent z-axis from moving because motors overpower it. Install If you have squashed first layer make sure to clean it off where it rubs on shaft collar or else it'll...

Anet A6 Y Axis Tensioner I've tried several Y-axis tensioners with printed screws, but I found that a metal screw offers unmatched accuracy. This version uses an M8 set screw and nut to apply belt tension. The belt bearing axis is adjusted to match...

I'd like to explore the possibilities of upgrading the x-axis on my human.

The right Z-axis jackscrew nut support now secures the X-axis motor in place. ...By adding weight to this jackscrew nut support, we effectively counterbalance the motor's weight, thereby preventing the jackscrews from falling out of alignment.

Shift the X-axis rods so that the Z-axis rod can enter the printer body hole without bending (a small note: my X-axis rods are firmly attached to the motor side, I wrapped them with stretch film and inserted them) Tighten the X-axis rod tightening...