anet a8 to corexy 3d models

The hole is just small enough for the thread to grab onto without being too difficult to screw in. ... If you want added security, place an M3 nut over the hole first, then use a hot soldering iron to press it firmly into the plastic, making sure it's...

... my setup and optimize performance. This custom holder is a game-changer, and I'm excited to show you how it works. Feel free to use this file to create your own autolevel sensor holder - it's open-source, so everyone can benefit from my creation!

I used SolidWorks Student to design the part itself, and then Slic3r to generate the Gcode. If you have any questions or need further clarification on anything, please don't hesitate to reach out. ...This piece is specifically designed to accommodate...

To ensure proper alignment, space the bolt heads evenly to keep the hotend away from the mount. I recommend printing with 100% infill, although it's not strictly necessary. ...And don't forget, I haven't tested this design yet, so proceed with caution!

Although I printed it using PETG initially, I encountered a significant issue: the part would flex and eventually fail at the hotend mount point due to its plastic material properties. ...In response, I developed this design specifically to address that...

Cheers Update: I reuploaded all three files due to an issue my friend found out about after printing the case; my print off the original file works fine, but the newer version is a little more forgiving when it comes to tolerances. Update July 4,...

... This practical holder minimizes plastic usage while getting the job done efficiently. To replicate this design, you'll need an M8 threaded shaft approximately 240mm in length and a few nuts – washers are optional but recommended for added stability.

... frame flexing issues. Additionally, mounting the printer directly to the MDF allowed for effortless movement without compromising any adjustments made to the bed's level. ...As a result, the entire printer setup became more stable and reliable.

... it for added stability. Additionally, I expanded the holes in the case to facilitate smoother wire management, enlarged the SD card aperture to better accommodate the mainboard's SD card mount, and reinforced the latches for enhanced functionality.

... and the switch obstructed the power supply path. To compensate, I relocated the switch downwards to facilitate a proper fit.\r\nYou will need to solder the wires at a 90-degree angle because there isn't enough clearance for straight soldering.

Initially, I didn't give it much thought, but as the night wore on and the extruder returned to its home position, my filament began to flex and eventually break due to the prolonged pressure over several days or nights. ...Fortunately, this guide...

No need to overcomplicate the assembly process by drilling into the frame. Screws are all that's required to secure everything in place. 4x screws with a diameter of M3 and a length of 16mm will do the trick. 1x additional screw is needed, also with...

This printer mount is designed to be placed above the printer, replacing the spacers between the frame and the LCD display, making it easy for the filament to descend to the extruder without any stress. Note: The rod included in the kit will not...

... assembly in place. Simply remove a few screws holding the extruder fan (those from the front nozzle), along with two slightly longer ones for the nozzle, and you're ready to access the wire pushing mechanism without any major disassembly required.

... perfectly after only a few test runs. Feel free to use this new fan and place it flat on the hotbed if you prefer not to add supports. ...To get the best results, simply rotate it 90 degrees from its original position as indicated in the file.

This is a Remix of (Can't reference this, it always sais: Thing not found): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959 You can screw it to the frame.

heavily inspired by the 40mm fan duct mod by ColdExtruder - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3245042 including the step file in case someone wants to change the design

... along the X axis. It is designed to clip onto the acrylic frame's top surface, so I used a small strip of two-way tape to secure it in place. ... I've been running it for several months now to ensure there were no issues with its performance.

Hi, it's my new tray to the corner of printer. ... Update: v2 - smaller walls for save some material and little bit smaller size

Front bracket securely fastened to a sturdy base\nPrint Parameters\nPrinter Model: Prusa\n Printer Type:\n Printer Name: Prusa Steel\nPost-Manufacturing Process

I experimented with various adapters, but then I opted to craft one myself for seamless integration with a standard extruder, minimizing post-processing requirements.

I printed this device using PLA. ... Create an M4 thread on the linear mount to secure the device. ... You will need: Three 5mm LEDs Two M4x6 screws

Fixing the glass in place on the printing table requires a reliable clamp system. ...To achieve this, I highly suggest using four sturdy clamps for optimal results.

In response to the initial print's looseness, I reduced the gap by 0.2mm to heighten the pressure within the jaw, effectively tightening its grip. Although untested yet, this revised design should operate as intended. ...If you believe the jaw requires...

This creation was crafted using Tinkercad's innovative platform. ...To make adjustments and improvements, simply visit https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5GoBjRNlMLm and start editing online now!

In this case, a 3D printer enthusiast has devised an ingenious way to minimize noise pollution caused by conventional filaments. By inserting a roller into the middle of the filament, it's possible to drastically reduce the level of noise generated...

Changes are made to prevent touching cables, allowing for the installation of a filament guide. ... 3D Community https://trello.com/3dcommunity

Remix of the Mosfet Holder by Leo_N, featuring shortened spacers that enable motherboard screws to firmly secure the cooling fan attachment.

You'll require two buttons, whose dimensions are subject to variation - please verify them accordingly, and a 10K potentiometer featuring a potentiometer head.

I had been utilizing a length of wire mesh as a makeshift conduit guide until I made up my mind to enhance its functionality.