anet a8 wire management 3d models

A custom volt meter mount designed specifically for the Anet A3 printer, featuring an integral shunt holder. This unique setup enables users to easily monitor their printer's voltage levels while keeping the electrical connections organized and tidy....

I had been utilizing a length of wire mesh as a makeshift conduit guide until I made up my mind to enhance its functionality.

... fan fall out while long printing job and big mesh of plastic everywhere.On original desing when nozzle totaly inserted in the fan duct, the hole dosen't fit with exiting screw of fan to. I just change the angle of arm for better fit on my own A8.

I crafted this filament guide to utilize the original screws that secure the LCD to the A8 printer, and yes, they are long enough. When I integrated the X-axis chain into the printer, the filament would snag on the chain, causing the spool to become...

... incorporated an extra hole in the top for cable routing, including the LCD cable. This will help maintain a clean and organized design. Lastly, I've simplified the overall design by removing the A8 logo, resulting in a more streamlined aesthetic.

The extra nuts and washers came as spare parts with my A8 3D printer, but I needed longer screws, which I had to purchase separately. To achieve a stable print, I used 10% infill and PLA material; however, ABS would also work well in this setup. You...

Power Box A8 Switch: https://aliexpress.com/item/Promotion-5-pcs-2-Pin-SPST-Red-Neon-Light-On-Off-Rocker-Switch-AC-16A-250V/32427150186.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.uCnPmf Fuse:...

This is my custom-designed e-box for the electronics of the Anet A3D printer. It comes equipped with a high-performance 60 x 60 x 25 mm cooling fan that's included in the package. The ebox has been carefully crafted to accommodate up to two mosfets...

... assembly in place. Simply remove a few screws holding the extruder fan (those from the front nozzle), along with two slightly longer ones for the nozzle, and you're ready to access the wire pushing mechanism without any major disassembly required.

I completely overhauled my A8 to make cable replacement a breeze and prepare for potential waterlines in the future. All parts were printed using Hatchbox ABS (grey parts) and Priline CFPC. I'll post pictures as soon as I have the chance.

Before assembling the A8, it's crucial to polish the steel guide rods, which arrive quite rough. It's also vital to pack the linear bearings with grease, as they can be dry when shipped. ... My printer has accumulated over 2600 hours of use now and...

I was irritated by the stock ZAxis mounting on my A8, particularly when I was going between the stock platform with painters tape, and clamping on a glass plate. Works great, but it's still always wise to fine level with the thumbscrews, but I find...

Usage -------- Clips a 1mm CFK plate (220x220) onto the A8's standard heating bed. The combined thickness of the CFK plate and heating bed is approximately 4.2mm. Use the same corner four times without any additional material needed. Installation...

I've been testing my reworked design on an A8 3D printer, and even under full y-axis belt tension, there's minimal deflection of the vertical support holding the motor plate. ...My rear acrylic plate is now flat again, and as a bonus, the Y axis motor...

The barrel is the original Anet, I've modified it by changing the Teflon tube with one that goes from the nozzle to the highest part of the upper thread guide, the nozzle I put one from a E3DV6 clone, although I'm waiting for an original Volcano, I...

COTS: 4 x M3 screws L:20mm with flat head 2 x M3 screws L:40mm with flat head 2 x M3 screws L:20mm hex socket cap 4 x M3 nuts (DIN 934) 4 x M3 nuts with nylon lock (self-locking) I've reused the original Anet bearing f623zz. Thanks for sharing your...

16/3 SJT cable Wire strain relief Crimp-on wire connectors Crimping tool Decora Housing Unit 2 - Switches as per above. Wiring instructions can be found online. As a retired electrician, I do not provide wiring information. It is a liability...

This updated version is compatible with both stock A8 frames and AM8 frames, which require 2xM5x10 bolts and 2xM5 T-Slot nuts. It works perfectly for an 8mm thick acrylic frame and can be easily modified upon request. Required materials include: ...

The acrylic frame on one of my old A8s was starting to flex enough to push the Y-axis stepper out of alignment and affect print quality. I could go into detail on the engineering and physics of this, but it boils down to these printers needing...

Hello, I've built a frame for my A8 using 35x35 treated timber. It was a total cost of around £30. Here's what you'll need: * 35 x 35 timber (3m long, possibly longer due to cuts) * Miter saw * Wood screws * L Brackets x 8 * T brackets x 4 *...

Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8TA1o3oWQaPI purchased a Runout sensor on Aliexpress "3D Printer Filament Break Detection Module With 1M Cable Run-Out Sensor Material Runout Detector For Ender 3 CR10 3D Printer"Two wire connection to...

... and the switch obstructed the power supply path. To compensate, I relocated the switch downwards to facilitate a proper fit.\r\nYou will need to solder the wires at a 90-degree angle because there isn't enough clearance for straight soldering.

Key updates include: * One-part assembly * Easy construction * Tight tolerancing * 25mm increased Z-axis space * Central mass distribution * Enhanced cable management Print time varies between 5-7 hours depending on the setup, and built-in supports...

... the switch was too small, and the switch was in the way of the power supply. I had to move the switch down to make it fit. Your will have to solder the wires horizontally (at 90 degree), because there is not enough space if you solder them straight.

Here is the text rewritten in American English with a Flesch-Kincaid test score of 100%: I created this power supply cover because I couldn't find one that supported my switch and failed to locate one that could keep all the wiring inside. ... I used...

... If, for some reason, you're experiencing the opposite problem where your wiring hits the front edge of the frame, please let me know and I'll create a second cover that can be used on the back. This way, you'll have both solutions available to you.

The top of the extruder tube had become a challenging sightline to manage, so I experimented with a small mirror. To my satisfaction, it worked, prompting me to design a holder for a 76mm (3") mirror. The holder clips onto the two gantry rails and...

Here is an aluminum one piece platform that incorporates an attachment point for a cable chain for the hot bed and thermistor wires. The attached file is a .dxf file and is suitable for laser or water jet cutting. I made mine from 5mm 6061-T6...

This thing was created since I couldn't find a case that would hold two mosfets (of the type I used) and the Anet mainboard. I either only found cases to hold the mosfet(s) or the mainboard; many also had space added for other circuit boards that...

I used a 2x0.75mm sheathed wire recovered from an old power cord of a radio as the cable for this part. This piece must be attached to the hole cover of the steel bar of the Z-axis using a screw. The second part needs to be mounted on the extruder...