anycubic i3 mega filament 3d models

So my first version flopped, mainly because I had to merge two pieces together (the original piece didn't fit Mega S, so I merged it with something else that could). Anyway, I remixed a more stable version using other parts. The stalk or stem, I...

I've attached the OpenSCad sources for easy customization because my Anycubic doesn't have a bottom enclosure, so the fan has enough room. ... It's an easy print, just turn it on the flat side and add support from printbed only (probably will print...

The mount from the motor is the original that Anycubic used, and you will need a stepper motor extension cable to attach it. Remove the PC4-M10 in top of the hot end, and use a PC4-M6 in the extruder side. ... Insert the PTFE tube and cut just so the...

... ...Your Anycubic printer makes such a noise, that you can't live without Ibuprofen to suppress a headache. While waiting for parts from China, making your printer silent, you can use this ibuprofen stack. It is is designed to cover your daily dosage.

I encountered a problem with the filament guide being too close to the filament detector when the print head was near the heated bed. As a result, the filament detector kept detaching from its magnetic base. ...To resolve this issue, I simply pulled the...

... these calibration tests - they're all too complicated! ...Most have nine different components, which seems excessive to me; five would suffice. To simplify things and save time, I've streamlined the process, particularly for those using the i3 model.

It appears you've documented the process of upgrading an Anycubic 3D printer with a new RUMBA PLUS board, adding a third extruder, and configuring Marlin firmware. To clarify, here are the steps: 1. **Wiring Upgrade**: * Drill holes on the...

Verwendete Schrauben: 6 Stück M3 x 12 Druckerstettings: Ich habe das auf meinen Anycubic i3 Mega S und einen Anycubic Mega X gedruckt. Filament: ASA - von „Extrudr“ oder PETG von „DasFilament“. Keine besonderen Temperaturen bzw. Einstellungen. ASA...

Verwendete Schrauben: 6 Stück M3 x 12 Druckerstettings: Ich habe das auf meinen Anycubic i3 Mega S und einen Anycubic Mega X gedruckt. Filament: ASA - von „Extrudr“ oder PETG von „DasFilament“. Keine besonderen Temperaturen bzw. Einstellungen. ASA...

Verwendete Schrauben: 6 Stück M3 x 12 Druckerstettings: Ich habe das auf meinen Anycubic i3 Mega S und einen Anycubic Mega X gedruckt. Filament: ASA - von „Extrudr“ oder PETG von „DasFilament“. Keine besonderen Temperaturen bzw. Einstellungen. ASA...

The original part was 0.5 too big in the outer diameter and wouldn't fit in the clamps on the mega. Also, it was too short as the original bearings were nearly twice as long. I printed them at 0.15mm layer height and they slid right on the rods.</p>...

This cable fixation bracket provides a snug fit on the hotbed mount sub-plate, safeguarding soldered hotbed connections that are known to be problematic on Mega series printers. Installation: To install this bracket, I recommend removing the hotbed...

The part was 0.5mm too big in outer diameter and wouldn't fit snugly into the clamps on my mega. Additionally, it was too short because the original bearings were nearly twice as long. I printed them at 0.15mm layer height and they slid effortlessly...

I cannot remember if I drilled two holes in the base of the Mega for this or not (its been a while). The board mount holes are tapped and I believe I used all M3x8mm screws. I have added the screws I bought while doing this upgrade. The MOSFET...

Manufacturers are now offering extruder support for easy installation on a horizontal mount with a convenient front-facing filament input, all integrated right onto the Z-axis carriage.

A Bracket to Rotate the Extruder for Easy Filament Insertion To accomplish this task, you will need four M4 threaded screws and four M4 nuts.

I created a custom bracket that doesn't strain the ptfE tube onto the motor reel block and holds up the filament sensor.

Fed up with the original anycubic spool holder support, I created a sturdy and user-friendly replacement for my printer. The locking mechanism of the coil is straightforward yet effective. Built to last, it's perfect for reels weighing up to 1 kg....

I was in a bind when the original CPU cooler on my i3 burned out early, so I needed a replacement and had a 40mm Noctua lying around.\r\n\r\nAll I had to do was widen the cutout in the case and drill it accordingly.\r\n\r\nIf people are now screaming...

... Sensor. ... The sensor is no longer placed at the bottom. An additional lower filament guide is highly recommended; I have taken the open version of this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2869065/files https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9ReKge2JsQ

A high spool holder enables effortless switching between different filament colors. This elevated spool holder facilitates easy color changes to the filament. Two CHC M4x102 fasteners and two CHC M8x75 fasteners secure bearings 608ZZ in a linear...

From the ground up, I revamped the project based on MakeNGrow's design, modifying the filament hole to accommodate an adapter specifically tailored for TPU filaments' flexible nature. ...Meanwhile, I strengthened the structural posts surrounding the...

I mounted my i3 in an enclosure, which demanded a redesign of my spool holder to accommodate it on top and position it horizontally to maximize space efficiency. In addition, I downloaded and printed the extruder relocation bracket from this source,...

I put my i3 in an enclosure which meant redesigning my spool holder. I neede it to go on top and to be horizontal to save space. I also have downloaded and printed the extruder relocation bracket from here. Together these two items should make this...

... holder. If you don't need the sensor anymore, like me, because it can be faulty on transparent filament, you can clip the filament sensor onto my holder. ...But you must extend the wiring from the sensor; otherwise, it will rip off in mid-print.

I designed a clamp to secure the arms firmly in place, ensuring they wouldn't separate during printing, which would prevent the delicate filament roll from tumbling and getting damaged.

Hello, I created this handy device to adjust the extruder to the "open" position, allowing me to effortlessly wind the filament onto the spool without having to halt the clamp.

I'm fed up switching between PLA, PETG, and TPU filaments, which can be a real pain when it comes to adjusting the tension with that tiny wheel. ...To simplify things, I designed a tool using Fusion 360.

Thanks to @ringo2k for the base model. ... I added side panels to prevent the Filament Spool falling off the Holder ;) You need 1 8mm rod or M8 rod and two normal 608Z ball bearings.

No installation is required, simply place the filament spool on top of your arm when installing it. The spool will now have a smooth rotation. ...Two 608 bearings are needed.