anycubic i3 mega pause print 3d models

The original screw, M3x6, from the stepper motor can be used to attach the sensor counterpart directly to the printed part, requiring some pressure to secure it in place without needing to cut threads. I intentionally left the two parts unsecured...

As a result, the original Z-axis printing height can be maintained. Bltouch offset : x -3 , y -45 (M851) Chain size 10x10 I added a second version of the mount. Version A - vertical chain guide, version B - horizontal chain guide. ... Belt...

I was searching high and low for a sturdy mount to attach my Insta360 ONE R (GoPro-style mount) to my print bed, but all I could find were flimsy options that would likely flex or fall off during printing. So, I took matters into my own hands and...

Update (2019-05-20) -------------------- When printing at high temperatures, the part cooler was a little too far away from the build plate and thus cooling down the headend. I added Part_Cooler_Adjustment.stl which can be used to lower the part...

Required parts: - 4x 608ZZ Bearings (same as used in skateboards) - 4x M3 Screws (I used M4x16) - 4x M3 Nuts - 2x spool-holder-side-1.stl - 2x spool-holder-side-2.stl I printed two sets of parts one straight and one mirrored but that is not...

... I printed all parts in PETG for their heat resistance near the hotend, but PLA may also be suitable. Notes: - Print the fan duct at approximately 0.12mm layers. ...- Print other parts with 20%+ infill and 0.2mm or thicker walls for added rigidity.

Print at any desired layer height - 0.2mm is more than sufficient. However, it requires two additional M3 screws, either matching the length of the rest or longer. These screws serve as a secondary means of securing the assembly, complementing the...

To speed up printing with less support material, I've shifted the cable supports. Unfortunately, the back of my camera case also doesn't fit right, so I had to use a file and a knife to modify it. As a result, some material was removed. ... ### Update...

After printing these fantastic leveling knobs (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3145976), I needed a way to relocate the hotbed cable efficiently. Not wanting to settle for zip ties as a solution, I chose to experiment with Tinkercad. Please feel...

I printed the plate out of PLA and it works fine so far and is very stable. The disadvantage of this solution is that you lose about 70mm of the Z height. An angled version will follow. The extruder cable should be extended. Have fun by...

This printer comes equipped with its own proximity sensor for leveling, however, I desired visual confirmation and to check other points on the printing surface. Thus, I designed a quick tool that accurately levels the bed and detects bends at...

I printed six parts of the holder to ensure it was sturdy. I also created a cable clip for attachment at my printer. I used this particular LED strip: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bhPniFwZ. ...The LED strip is controlled by switching it on and off...

Print with 0.2mm layer height and supports are not required. To enhance build plate adhesion, try positioning the model as shown in my images. ... It's a snug fit, so start by attaching the shorter end first and then carefully insert the longer end,...

Printed in TPU these seem to work very well, about the same as the squash feet. Installing these feet requires no tools, just place the feet under the printer covering the original hard rubber feet. These feet will raise the printer from the stock...

Printed in PLA plastic, this project had only one challenge: ensuring the supports didn't touch the build plate. I carefully planned out the design to avoid any issues. Both fans are now connected directly to the PSU fan connector, giving them a...

So, I printed this frame to encase the sides, and I'm pleased with the sleek, minimalist appearance. In the slicer, I inverted the frame so the front would mimic the structure of the Ultrabase. ...Additionally, I noticed that the touchscreen is more...

I designed a quick leveling system for my printer, which has its own proximity sensor for leveling, but I wanted a visual check and to inspect other points on the printing surface. This design allows for accurate hot bed leveling and detects any...

... should be fine screwing directly into the plastic. You can just cut the plug off the stock fan and splice it onto the wires of the new one. __NOTE: this will reduce the print volume by 5mm on the x-axis unless you move the limit switch. ...__

Goals: I made this to get rif od the noisy fans of this Printer and to have a better view of the Hotend while its printing. What you need: -11 m3x5x4 Heat set inserts -45x45x10 fan (quiet) -50x50 fan (any thickness, any noise level) ...

The biggest advantage of the Ultrabase, prints stick extremely well to the bed, is also its biggest disadvantage. Usually one can only remove them once the bed has cooled down to 30°C. This can take quite some time as there isn't any active...

Most important features of the cover: Lightweight: reduces ghosting and costs less filament to print Is compatible with both the stock parts cooling fan and heatsink fan Can be mounted with four M3 nuts and M3 bolts, a link for which can be found...

So back to the drawing board and print a new one, Version 2. After installing it made the same noise level as no cover, the design was okay. After receiving my two new Sunon fans, it was time to install them and test the noise level again. BIG...

To ensure a strong and durable build, print the main body using PETG exclusively, as PLA becomes prone to softening when exposed to heat from the LEDs. In contrast, the camera cover can be printed with PLA. This innovative design enables the holder...

I have not printed the 4 blade version but it should work just as well if not, even better :] I would recommend printing in PETG, for better durability and resistance against harsh temperature fluctuations. ... I've also included the PTC Creo project...

Key features of this redesigned cover include: - Lightweight construction, which reduces ghosting and requires less filament to print - Compatibility with both the stock cooling fan and heatsink fan - Four M3 nuts and M3 bolts are used for mounting,...

Tree support is recommended for printing; use experimental Cura features or Autodesk Meshmixer to add it easily. Support material removal is a breeze with tree supports. ... If you'd like to support my free designs, consider using my AliExpress...

In addition, an additional holder at the hotend so that the teflon hose can be led backwards a bit, so it does not bend when larger prints at the upper edge of the printer. I shortened two elements of the chain by cutting off part of them to enable...

To achieve an excellent result, simply turn on your bridging settings and remove any excess strings after printing. This is a variant of my original design that performs better but requires more effort to install and specialized parts. If you're...

There has been a slight improvement on my prints and unfortunately I don't have a before and after print to show as a comparison. Maybe someone can post a make with a comparison. Happy printing. Update: I've added a Z wobble support that uses an M4...

... recurring issues with bending on the left side, obviating the need for constant readjustment and leveling. It's essential to note that this assembly requires printing in PETG or ABS due to the warmth it generates under normal operating conditions.