ender 3 z offset 3d models

Improved the moving upper part by - widening the fin so it is a snug fit in the channel - adding a T nut which when tightened holds the top end within the channel (but still allows movement) - added pocket for the Z stop PCB to be installed in...

... of the screw block on the stepper when installing. The underside angle will prevent the stepper from leaning towards the Z rail. ... Hopefully it can help others with the same issue because flat shims never did the job so I designed this myself.

To achieve precise alignment of the Z-rod with the frame, shims are essential. A mere 1mm discrepancy can be significant, but by flipping them over, you can effectively cancel out their impact. Experimenting with different combinations is likely to...

This will support the Z-motor and align it correctly to prevent the leadscrew from binding. You will no longer have to use paper/card or leave the motor loose to prevent the binding. Check pics for installation. ... Rotate the model in your slicer...

**24/05/2018: Upgraded to v2, reducing filament usage by about 25% and print time by approximately 15%.** This update will secure the Z-motor and align it properly, preventing leadscrew binding from occurring. You will no longer need to use paper or...

Top mounted Z-stabilizer for a standard 608 bearing (buy the cheapest you can find or print one) This might be a very tight fit. If you want to insert the bearing without tools you might want to use a slightly negative horizontal expansion for this.

My 2nd z-axis has a different size hole, I modified the design a bit Filament i...

Z-axis limit switch regulator. It has discrete adjustment with a step of 0.025 mm. Printed from PLA with 100% coverage. The dovetail, after a short grinding and lubrication with grease for plastic, moves without play and effort. Bolt or hairpin Ф4...

This is matching Z Knob to the Vortex Extruder Knob (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3518099)\r\n\r\nMatching this knob to the Vortex Extruder Knob will help spin the Z axis rod, raising and lowering the X gantry to check your nozzle. Most of the...

Optional: Flex coupler for one or both of the Z-axis motors (5mm to 8mm) Then align, align, align, and once you get everything working, don't break it. :) This has been working well for a few weeks now on my sister's printer. ... Fingers crossed this...

it is in fact 12.12mm where it mounts to the upright, but 11.9 where to countersink heads are, meaning the flat surface where the motor mounts to is in fact at an 90.6 deg angle to the uprights, which is why the z axis bar is tight as it get down...

I created the design to follow 0.12mm increments to follow the default Cura settings for Ender 3s. I printed these at 0.12mm to get the best resolution on the spacer thickness. ... You can see these kinds of brackets being used in this video: ...

These are asymmetric to clear the X plates - could potentially get even higher Z height (around 280mm) if you don't use the outside bolt. It's super solid with just the single top bolt to be honest. Bottom brackets I remixed to use F695-2RS...

I upgraded the printer's drive system with a new z-axis drive for enhanced stability. The lead screw for this axis is notably long, as evident from the attached photo. Initially, I had planned to shorten it, but then I opted to add a die on top...

... screw centered 21mm from the frame (measure 25mm from the outside edge of the leadscrew just above the motor coupler to ensure this bracket fits perfectly before you print). My printer has these Z-motor spacers installed and it is a perfect fit.

New version (V5) of my chain mount to NEMA stepper motor on Z axis. Printing: When printing this, the orientation on the printing bed is best with the chain side up and the cable hole at the top. The first versions were not strong enough with 20%...

New version (V5) of my chain mount to NEMA stepper motor on Z axis. Printing: When I print this, the orientation on the printing bed is best with the chain side facing up and the cable hole on top. The first versions weren't strong enough with 20%...

I'm using BMG clone extruder and the cable guide from llueen can't be fit directly - Z-axis brass nut blocking part of the guide. I have to remove some parts to get it fit. * llueen cable guide: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723800 Also,...

found that I missed having the tools on the Power Supply after I had to move the supply for the Dual Z, So Came up with a solution, it's not a quick print, but it works. Added a few new spots for stuff like my support removal tools, markers, nozzle...

After finally adding a BL-Touch, I found it to be useful as a mechanical protection end stop, for when the probe missed the sensor, it would stop the downward z movement of the head before it attempted to drive into the bed. ... Thanks to the other...

This is a knob (kit) to help spin that corkscrew for the Z-axis stepper motor to lift and lower the extruder assembly. I've had it with trying to spin on on the stepper or corkscrew. The lever.stl is for those that doesn't mind having it...

I recently upgraded the printer with a double Z-axis consisting of a lead screw and a stepper motor, and later I also added a timing belt so that when the stepper motors are disabled they do not go out of sync, but the first time I put a 610 belt on...

There a few different belt Z conversions out there for this printer. None of them fit perfectly for what I wanted to do so I made this. It's still a work in progress but has been working well for a couple months. I'm happy with the mechanics, only...

Here's a video that shows how it works and where it should be installed - it's not perfect, but it's better than nothing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYs1RouDY1k I've included two versions of part "A" - one is specifically designed for Ender...

Dual Z stepper motor mounting system that requires no moving of power supply or display screen, just two parts need printing: you'll also need a second standard lead screw, lead screw nut, stepper motor, Y harness for twin steppers and a handful of...

Top and bottom parts are identical.You need:10 pcs. ...5x1.7mm magnets 4 pcs.  2mm screws (around 9mm lenght)3 pcs. ...5mm steel balls from bearing (or slighly bigger or smoller)Note: Magnets must be glued in. Idea:

My print settings are as follows: - Sliced with Ultimaker Cura 3.6 - Speed: 60 mm/s (first layer: 30 mm/s) - Temperature: 242/75 °C (PET-G) - Top/bottom patterns: lines - Support pattern: zig zag - Raft: yes, 0.8 mm thick - Infill: 100% You will...

&nbsp;2mm screws (around 9mm lenght)3 pcs. ...5mm steel balls from bearing (or slighly bigger or smoller)</p><p><strong>Note:</strong> Magnets must be glued in.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Idea:</p><figure class="media"><oembed...

You need an M3 bolt, 2 or 3 M3 nuts, and 2 split lock M3 washers Assembly: Bolt head with nut and washed go in the knob, on the protruding part of the bolt use the lock washed and nut to secure the bolt in the knob. I use PETG for long-term use...

3 - Use thin zip ties to secure everything in place tightly. EDIT: Tolerances can get quite tight on this remix, so be sure to clean your print thoroughly before installation. Yes, the inner surface of the vertical tab is angled by design for a...