geeetech a10 direct drive 3d models

This adapter empowers linear belt drives. Crafted for a 16-tooth pulley and GT-2 belt, it makes precise connections. Secured with M8x20mm bolt, two M8 washers, one M8 nut, one 608ZZ bearing, and four M3x16mm bolts. P.S. ...The gap size was fine-tuned...

End Caps for Open V-Slot 2020 with Open Hardware logo. ... This is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515

Remix of Bullseye Motor Mount for Direct Extruder System. ... Layer Height: .20 Shell Thickness: 1.2 Infill Percentage: 20-35% Support Material Density: 78% with 5% Infill PTFE Tube Required for Assembly Verify Filament Hole to Ensure Smooth Filament...

Direct motor mount for Sunu's extruder. This was designed as an easy quick fix as the PETF tube end broke off. ...I am working on Artillery sidewinder hot end fit - Testing in progress.

Direct motor driven fenestron design to fit the Trex 500. ...It is deigned to use a BrotherHobby Avenger V2 2507 1750kv motor turning an HQ 76mm 8 blade propeller on 6S.

its time for a Remix :) bom MK8 Drive screws optional: 4x cable connector Config for BLtouch Offset X: 0 Offset Y: +27.3 changelog 19.04.2020 final 20.04.2020 small update: xbelt 21.04.2020 add v2 and v3 of FanDuct Nozzle (v2 height opening 2mm,...

As a result, the pneumatic push-in fittings are no longer necessary since the metal all-metal extruder drive feeder now holds the PTFE tube firmly in place against the hot-end. Due to the tight tolerances, there's a risk of an elephant foot...

... compatible with Ender 3, Ender3 pro, and Ender v2. It is used to put our extruder in direct configuration. It helps to print with technical materials like PTG, ABS, TPU, etc. It does not require extra screws for installation. ... STEP file available

This is a bracket I designed to attach the stock extruder in a direct configuration. It does not require any irreversible modifications to be made to the extruder or printer. You will need an extension cable to make this work. This is barely...

This is a bracket I designed to attach the stock extruder in a direct configuration. It does not require any irreversible modifications to be made to the extruder or printer. You will need an extension cable to make this work. This is barely...

It's Time for a Makeover :)\r\n\r\n\r\n-----------------------\r\n\r\n\r\nLet's Get Started\r\n\r\nMK8 Drive Screws\r\n\r\noptional:\r\n4x Cable Connector\r\n\r\n-----------------------\r\nTune Up Your BLtouch\r\n\r\n\r\nOffset X: 0\r\nOffset Y:...

... and install it into this mount (you'll have to enlarge the screw holes a bit). Redesign the extruder wire so that it goes straight to the hotend. Use approximately 1.5 inches of PTFE tubing to connect the motor to the hot end in a direct line.

Remixed from a CR-10 direct extrusion, Ender 3 style. PLEASE NOTE: Holes require drilling out slightly to fit wheel bushings. Still learning this process and struggled to make them large enough. Experimenting successfully on the TRONXY XY-3 so...

... while others call it a "hub". In any case its a 3D printed cover that goes over the shaft. Its purely esthetic and has no structural function. I used it on my SW20 V2, but in can be used on any direct wheel with a similar shaft clamp I guess.

The compatible components include: An x1 MK8 Extruder Drive Gear with interchangeable threads (1.75mm and 3.00mm), available on eBay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/390979321657 Additionally, an x1 625VV Groove Sealed Ball Bearing, also available on...

This design sits directly on a CR-10s chassis without modification needed to the x/z axis switch. Unlike other bondtech extruders, this one keeps your 40X40 stepper motor intact. The E3d hotend fits directly into the bondtech extruder with ease. The...

This is a mount for the Titan direct mount designed specifically for the Vulcanus style CoreXY printers. Several modifications are required to be made by hand, using a drill bit, to the bottom and middle bearing holders of the XY Carriage in order to...

English: Recently I have changed my Ender 3 V2 to direct, I was looking for many designs that I liked to be able to put the filament sensor, and, either I did not like the position or I did not like the design, so I started to make a simple one...

This idler is designed for 1.75mm filament and works well with Makerbot mk7 and mk7 Drive Gear, though it was created for a spur gear from SDP-SI (S10T05M020S0505). It includes clearance on the bearing side so you can print a mirrored idler for dual...

$9.00 MK8 Drive Gear Filament Pulley $5.00 5x10x4mm Ball Bearing - MR105 2TS PTFE tube (need about 10mm piece; you may have it laying around) All screws and springs are used from old extruder. Two springs combine into one, making a strong spring, so...

I needed a direct adaptor for the BLV rail kit to work with my stock hotend so I designed this one. You will need: A M3 tap. 2 M3 nuts. Screws. I ordered a tap and screw/nut set from Amazon. m3, m4 and m5. Everyone should have screw kits. ...

Display-Winkel: 4 x M5-Mutter 4 x M5x8 Linsenkopf Display-Cover: 4 x M3x8 Zylinderkopf

If your 3D printer's Y-carriage has bumps, it's time to swap out your y-endstop mount. This new mount lets you reuse the screws from your old setup and pairs them with T-nuts for added stability. ... https://youtu.be/sob1Rep0Vfk ...

I've been using Prusa Slicer extensively over the past few weeks, achieving impressive results. To give it a more polished appearance, I decided to customize each of my printers with unique build plates. This not only enhances aesthetics but also...

Hello! You need T8 Lead screw, Pitch 2mm Lead: 8mm, Tr8 nut and 4x m3 screws. Enjoy modding! ... Buy a coffe for me: https://paypal.me/pools/c/8zlfiv72cl

Systême de ventilation buse, fonction très bien avec ventilateur 40X40 24v.

I wanted a beefier filament sensor holder and I also did not like the angle the filament was taking to get to the feeder so I lowered it a little. It takes x2 M4-.70 x 16 bolts to hold the sensor in place, m4 flat nut. and x1 M4-.70 x 20 for...

I printed the design from donnyb99, but the tensioner is a little bit fragile, not easy to print and you need to disassemble the belt. So I tried to optimize it with this design. ...The knob is from his tensioner, looks good :-)

<p>I started using Prusa Slicer a lot more in the past few weeks with great results so i thought i make it look better.<br/> For each of my printers i added a custom build plate.<br/> This improves looks and it also makes it easier to see what...