i3 x axis upgrade 3d models

The X-motor's mounting point on all my Prusa versions was also changed to be placed left side which helps increase available space needed when adding other stuff or maybe upgrading some future pieces without making unnecessary compromises later down...

If you have customised your Anycubic i3 Mega and have removed the metal surround holding the fans, the x-axis home switch now just about gets touched by the back edge of the carriage.This block provides a more solid push and simply screws into the...

A versatile mounting system secures the critical endstop switch in place along the sturdy X-axis rail of the prized Prusa i3 metal frame. This custom attachment keeps crucial electronics close at hand and well out of harm's way amidst heavy printing...

Update: Another issue arose when I realized that my x-axis steel rods were slightly too short, causing the small rods on the cover to be undersized. To resolve this problem, I lengthened them in the model. Everything now works flawlessly and has...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2239300 & https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2243045 Moved Z-Axis motors out by drilling the outer hole of aluminum motor mounts to 6mm, tapping, and screwing an M6 Bolt into the vertical 2020 Extrusions. Utilize...

Here is the rewritten text: I designed a brand new X-Axis belt tensioner from scratch in Blender, tailored specifically for Anet A8 and other Prusa i3 designs. You can use either the stock smooth pulley or a toothed GT2 16-tooth pulley with a 3mm...

To attach the webcam, remove any supports and secure it by clipping the arm into the metal work behind the X-axis. Then, use the screw heads at the end of the X-axis to keep it in place. This eliminates the need for additional screws. The webcam...

Although this design features to make it compatible with my Poltur and PolturXL extruder mount designs, it's still totally compatible with standard i3 x-axis setups. I've included the STL for my extruder mount in this thing as well, since the two...

To Mount the webcam, remove the supports, and the arm clips into the metal work behind the X axis, then uses the screw heads on the end of the X axis to stay in place. No screws to fit it and it's easy to remove. The webcam needs to be mounted...

Using RJ4JP bearings on the x-axis significantly reduces noise, but over-tightening the rear access panel causes the bearings to deform, making travel challenging. On the other hand, leaving it loose allows the bearings to slide back and forth due...

Crafted to seamlessly integrate with specific Prusa original components such as the X-axis idler and extruder.

This section prevents excessive flexing of the cables connected to the stepper motor for the X-axis.

Dragchain Holder for X Axis of i3 Mega (Ultrabase, mk4) The smaller part attaches to the hotend and the bigger part goes to the stepper motor of the extruder. Two cable ties secure it in place. Using this setup may result in a loss of maximum Z...

If your Anycubic i3 Mega has been customized and the metal surround holding the fans has been removed, the x-axis home switch now just barely gets touched by the back edge of the carriage. To provide a more substantial push, this block can be...

This is based on the Wanhao i3 X-Axis Belt Tensioner, designed by Heathicus at Thingiverse. I'm running some IGUS-style printed PLA bushings in an SCS8UU block. The original design placed my bottom belt off-center, causing it to rub against the...

This is a replacement for the x-axis cable chain starter clip. It can be mounted on either end of the chain and screwed in securely. The Malyan M150 or Wanhao Duplicator i3 users will benefit from its use. This enhanced design is sturdier than the...

Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7xqG9P2DpZz I created this object as a way to easily remove the X-axis Drive belt. Fixed STL file, somehow the block was lifted 0.5mm above the bed. I apologize for any inconvenience this may cause. ... A...

A custom holder for Logitech webcams like the C920/C930E is designed specifically for the Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S X-axis nema 17-motor. This holder retains the original hinge to maintain tilt functionality. The webcam itself is shown in the last image. If...

Cable clip for the Z-motor, the plug of the Z-motor is relieved and thus prevents cable breaks. ...For Mega i3, S, X and other

Cable clip for the Z-motor, the plug of the Z-motor is relieved and thus prevents cable breaks. ...For Mega i3, S, X and other

Note: The X axis part is for the current model of the Geeetech I3 Pro printer that uses a metal plate on the X axis to support the linear bearings and extruder holder. When I was assembling my Geeetech I3 Pro C printer, I was struck by the fact...

----------------------- I like the idea of the X-axis motor mounted camera arm from [dragsterbox](https://www.thingiverse.com/dragsterbox/about) [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/dragsterbox/thing:3252355), and I've modified it to work with my Prusa...

A holder for a Logitech C920/C930E webcam without the heavy base for a Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S X-axis nema 17-motor. Uses the original hinge to keep tilt functionality. Last picture is from the webcam.</p> <p>It requires disassembly of the camera, but it...

This is a straightforward tweak to Pablo's incredible X-axis cable chain design, allowing the original filament sensor to remain intact while sliding smoothly into place.

This is my simple modification of Pablo's amazing X axis cable chain that just slides on and lets you keep the original filament sensor.

I really needed a X-axis cable chain, but I couldn't find a model that worked with my printer, so I came up with some new ways to install it correctly. The part attached to the X-motor is something I designed from scratch, while the mount on the...

v2 of my diy x-carriage design, original at https://www.printables.com/model/276122-prusa-i3-e3d-v6-x-axis-carriageNo support needed to print the carriage or part cooling fan guides, some support needed to print the clamp/fanmount and BLtouch...

This object is the support for the X axis opto enstop, designed to be fixed on the X axis rods as shown in the picture here attached. On the top there are 2 spacers to avoid pressure on the back side of the circuit board. ...On the back side there are 2...

I designed a new X-Idler from scratch for my Mega Prusa i3 since it wasn't symmetrical and I couldn't use the original DrRalph design. I also made pockets for cable ties, opting for M4 nuts and bolts instead. ... Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap...

I Made This After My Prusa I3 Hbi3 Kept Overshooting the Build Plate on Both X and Y Axes, Requiring Me to Sand Down the Y Adjustment Outer Shell for a Perfect Fit.\nPrint Settings\nPrinter:\n Prusa I3 Infitary (HBI3)\n \n Rafts: No\n \n Supports:...