openscad model of complete x axis for prusa i3 steel

Hey there, I'm excited to share my updated Axis X End Stop with you. I was struggling with a wobbly stop on mine, but I've now made it a simple plug-and-play MOD. Just check out the second picture where I drew in black marker the spot that needs...

ENGLISH----------ENGLISH----------ENGLISH----------ENGLISH----------ENGLISH *** Z Endstop for Prusa i3 Steel Clone Argentina Adapted specifically for this frame: (caba/cordobesa)...

This tweak will enable Z Wobble in the HICTOP Prusa i3 without requiring a re-print of the z carriages.

Z-axis reinforcement for Prusa i3 MK2 Speciall usefull in case you have an aluminium - melamine composit frame from Aliexpress (wobbly like crazy) BOM: 2x M8 430mm threaded rods, front Y axes replacement 2x M8 440mm threaded rods, Y to Z axis...

This is for bringing the Z-axis pole to a complete stop.

I'm planning a major overhaul of the Steel Prusa i3 framework, beefing up its structural integrity with more substantial reinforcement. ...You're welcome to visit my design blog for a deeper look into this upgrade: qmo-design.blogspot.com.

This is a custom-designed hot-end mount for the x-axis carriage of my Sunhokey Prusa i3. The original one broke and was poorly made, so I created this replacement myself. Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer Model: Prusa i3 Rafting: No...

This is a replacement hot-end mount for the x-axis carriage of the Sunhokey Prusa i3. ...Mine snapped and was crappy so I made a new one.

This is a crucial part of the Prusa I3's extruder mechanism, designed to hold and stabilize the material being pushed through the nozzle.

Upgraded Prusa i3 MK2 X-Axis Kit Important Update! If you downloaded this kit before October 8, 2018, 19:30 GMT+2, be aware that earlier versions contained incorrect files for the top axis. This has since been rectified. Kit Overview This is a...

I apologize for the subpar print quality, it's a result of my printer still being uncalibrated for ABS printing.\nThe Z endstop holder I'm about to show you is designed with that in mind.\nThe top part is specifically made to fit an M4 nut and screw...

... M5 nut on the z-axis threaded rod, install two nuts held apart by a spring. ...Slot this object into the nut trap of the x-axis motor mount and idler to prevent backlash issues. ...Watch for demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5W2-83pPvM

The Z height reduction combined with new Y corners reduces the need for 8mm smooth rods to only 2 pieces of 1m length each, maintaining original build volume (200 x 200 x 200). ...This compares to the original i3's dimensions of 320mm + 350mm + 370mm...

The person modified the design a little bit because it clashed with the support of the extruder and the end stop did not fully engage. ... https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8aT6w7xPQs2

I remixed daandruff's Crystal Cluster to fit snugly in the hex socket on the Prusa's Z-axis.

This piece helps craft sharp edges on the Prusa i3. ...It's slightly farther apart, making it fit better and reducing wobble even further.

This remix is based on P3steel 2.x - X-axis complete by toolson, tailored specifically for the Folgertech 2020 Prusa i3.\nSeveral key modifications have been made:\nHoles are now designed to fit smooth rod without drilling.\nThe hardware included in...

The X-axis belt tensioner for the Anycubic Prusa I3 is a customized adaptation of the machine's right-hand side assembly. ...To create this part, you will require an M6 bolt and a wing nut.

X-Axis Tensioner Compatible with Hesine M-505 (Prusa i3) Printer Clamp Model Found in Original Tensioner by Rejaak Print Settings for Smooth and Reliable Performance Printer Configuration: Hesine M-505 (Prusa i3) Raft-Free Printing: No Rafts Required...

X-Axis Tensioner compatable with Hesine M-505 (Prusa i3) printer. ...Clamp model can be found in original tensioner by rejaak.

X-axis with Carriage for Geeetech i3 This is a remix of Smooth X-axis for Prusa i3 with Leadscrews for use with X-axes Bowden Holder for E3D V6 and Geeetech Aluminium Y Axis Cable Chain Notes: No Supports Needed For Use with GT2 Belt, Calibrate...

... issues with my Y-axis belt skipping steps on GT2 gears, prompting me to create a solution that resolved the problem effectively. ...To achieve this, I utilized an 8mm x 22mm x 7mm 608ZZ bearing and reinforced its position with a sturdy zip tie.

I designed the Endstop Y axis specifically to mount directly onto an M10 threaded rod.\n\nInstructions: Print the Endstop Y axis at a moderate pace of 0.2 layer thickness, filling each layer with a dense infill percentage of 30%. ...Secure it firmly...

Update: Another issue arose when I realized that my x-axis steel rods were slightly too short, causing the small rods on the cover to be undersized. To resolve this problem, I lengthened them in the model. Everything now works flawlessly and has...

Fine-tuning the Z axis on your Original Prusa I3 with a 1.75 mm nozzle is key.\nIf you have multiple print pads, no need to tweak settings for each one individually.\nInstead, take the time to accurately calibrate your Z-axis once and reap the...

I've Constructed a Frame from Rectangular Steel to Enhance the Z-Axis Bracket on My Prusa I3 MK2 X. To Improve Printing Precision, I'm Using Ball Bearings 605ZZ to Minimize Swings of the Z-Axis. You'll Never Notice Any Z-Wob Again! Note: The Pink...

I observed that the Z rod screw exhibited significant motion during Z axis operation. ...Consequently, I conceived and engineered this component to maintain its stability at all times.

Fine calibration of the Z-axis is crucial for achieving precise results on your Original Prusa I3 1.75 mm. If you have multiple print pads, adjusting each separately can be a hassle. To simplify the process, accurately calibrate the Z-axis instead.