pi camera mount 3d models

This is my custom camera mount for the original Prusa i3 printer, and I've added an M12 lens adapter to my camera, so I had to modify the cover. It fits perfectly on the Raspberry camera v1.3, but unfortunately it doesn't fit on the v2 camera. I...

Needed a mounting mechanism for: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5335318 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3294512 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3294512 on my Anycubic Vyper. I already switched out my filament sensor bracket for a 45 degree...

Remixed to fit this RPI camera module.Hardware used:ItemQuantityM3 hex nut1M3 heat set threaded insert1M3 x 10mm bolt1M3 x 16mm bolt1M3 x 30mm bolt1This articulating camera mount can rotate along 2 axes so you can precisely point it where you want...

I took the base if DanieBull's design and made it into a magnetic base mount for Wanhao and other printers with steel frames so the camera can be moved and rotated around at will. Post-Printing I made the divots on the back for 2 9.5mm x 1.5mm...

I took the base if DanieBull's design and made it into a magnetic base mount for Wanhao and other printers with steel frames so the camera can be moved and rotated around at will. Post-Printing I made the divots on the back for 2 9.5mm x 1.5mm...

The holes in the camera mount are designed to accommodate M2 screws perfectly, eliminating the need for additional bolts on the back for support. ...This innovative design seamlessly mounts to the top bar of my printer, just like the spool holder, while...

This is a specialized camera designed specifically for Project ARA.

This allowed me to use the stock metal mount holding the sensor to attach this mount to the Z axis to track the print going up. 3M x 12-16mm screw to attach camera back housing. Print Settings Printer Brand: Anycubic Printer: All-metal Mega Rafts:...

I designed my own camera mount for my Ender 5 after failing to find one that fit my needs. I spent the afternoon creating it, ensuring all the files were correctly oriented to maximize strength at the joints. The base of the unit clamps securely with...

My camera wouldn't snap into place because the hole was too small, so I expanded it slightly and adjusted its position upwards to get a secure fit.

I moved the camera so it would not be hit by the printer head. ...I really works well now could not have been done without the previous persons model.

Use with this camera case: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849PLA15% InfillNo Supports NeededAdded individual files.

Mounts onto the corner bracket of Ender 5 Plus. ...Insert a screw though the mounting plate and the hole in the Ender corner bracket, or use the pin file in a pinch.

All chain links and camera housing should be taken directly from the original version. I also flipped the blade against the x-limit switch housing (which doesn't appear in yellow versions as it was an earlier design), since for some reason, the...

Austin3dprinting's STL files had some errors, so I re-did them. ...All of the arms now have a smooth inner profile, and the camera+final arm STL file is now split into 2 files so you can distance them on your printer.

Austin3dprinting's STL files had some errors, so I re-did them. ...All of the arms now have a smooth inner profile, and the camera+final arm STL file is now split into 2 files so you can distance them on your printer.

I redesigned the camera enclosure's front section to relocate the flexible cable, now emerging from the lower rear rather than the upper portion. ...This move frees up several millimeters of cable length :) The arm, enclosure back, and hotbed bracket...

The camera can be firmly attached by means of the two holes positioned strategically on the lens's side, allowing for precise alignment with an opening designed specifically for the focus light. ...This project is currently under development, so please...

... perfectly, since I was encountering problems with obstructed views during the initial layers. ... Reduced the arm length by 15mm so that the camera hangs a bit higher and the view of the nozzle isn't blocked by the bed during the first ~10 layers.

... frame screw in my twotrees sapphire plus printer. ...My camera was deeper so I had to modify the front case to fit it and also the pins were a bit hard to print so I used m2 bolts to fix it. The only part which needs support is the arm. ...

I've modified my previous cam mount design to fit 2020 extrusions, perfect for the Ender 3 and similar printers! ...The new version features 2x5mm screws for secure attachment and utilizes M3x15mm screws and nuts for a sturdy hold.

... features ISO 4035 (ISO 4032) M5 hex nuts. - The other includes DIN 562 M5 square nuts. The necessary screws for mounting are: - Two M5x10 with hammer-nuts for securing it to a 2020-extrusion. ...- A single M5x12 screw is required for the joints.

The modified camera arm slides smoothly into its custom hole. Depending on your printer's specifications, you may need to adjust the scale, apply glue, or utilize a thin shim due to friction fit tolerances. To ensure durability and resistance to heat...

This is a remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3217649 I found that the bed hit the original mount before being fully extended, so after a print has finished it would smash into the original mount, so I made it longer. **Warning** I was...

If you decide to use some of the "USB RPiCam holders", you can mount it directly on your ANet A8 printer by using this setup. ... Print Settings Printer: ANet A8 Rafts: Not necessary Supports: Not required Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 20%

I remixed this part since I wanted a way to mount it on the back of the printer without using any extra hardware. The red parts are what I made changes to, everything else came from the original post here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3747437 ...

This is a remix of zarify mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4087221 but made to fit an Ender 5 Plus It wont quite clear the hot end but does a good job and doesn't require and additional hardware. ... the cover is friction fit and you may need...

I've customized the mounting bracket for my Prusa i3 MK2S printer, making it fit perfectly with some tweaks. Specifically, I widened the opening from a standard 5.7mm to a roomier 7.1mm to clear the front-across threaded rod as shown in the photo.

I extended the clip of the mounting area and also made room for the Y motor belt to run without interruption. I also used the same idea at the original by including supports on the modified section that should remove easily once printed. ...Pictures are...

... ...I extended the mounting clip area and created space for the Y motor belt to run uninterrupted throughout the print process. ...Like the original design, I incorporated supports on the modified section that should be easy to remove after printing.