prusa i3 mk3 print fan 3d models

This may require trimming the extrusion depending on printer calibration and print speed settings. Clamps can be used to press the extrusion into place in the holes, as seen in the final picture. The design now guides cables to the back of the...

This is just a modified mount that shifts 5mm to the right for this specific thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2833898 , ensuring the circular fan duct aligns as closely as possible with my CTC i3 pro B's nozzle, and preventing fan duct contact...

I had to overhaul this shroud because it wouldn't fit my Prusa i3 due to its width exceeding my setup's capabilities, causing a conflict with the X-axis smooth rods, so I started from scratch as I couldn't figure out how to edit STL files. In...

This is a custom bracket I crafted specifically for use with a stock Folgertech Prusa I3 and DiiiCooler. Since I'm utilizing the two holes on the side of the metal cooler block for a BLTouch, I opted for this mount instead. After several attempts to...

The upgraded fan nozzle provides an unobstructed line of sight to the melting point of the extruder. ...I've leveraged the fundamental design principles of the original Prusa SCAD file, thereby ensuring compliance with the GPL3 License terms.

My standard fan deflector (Prusa file fan_nozzle.stl) consistently fell off on the left side due to material deformation. This issue was caused by the heater block being extremely close to the bolt holding the fan deflector screw. I created a new...

... la chose encore plus Permet un gain de 5mm sur la course des X. designed for Sunhokey@ prusa I3 acrylic 3D printer Best cooling for the HOTEND (witht the 2nd part), up to 5mm more on the X axis ! ... Instructions a same as V1

My initial attempt at printing this failed due to the small piece at the end detaching from the bed and ruining the print. With this updated version, you can print it well and easily cut away the thin wall if desired, or leave it intact for an open...

I took his designed and added a slot for the Pi Camera and a perpendicular arm that fits the Prusa i3 Frame. You will need 2x M3x10mm screws to attach the case to the frame. I highly recommend using this M screw nuts set from Aliexpress for a lot of...

Check out the official Prusa product at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2864118. ...This design extends your Prusa enclosure, allowing you to store filament in a secure box.

With this version you can print it well and easily cut away the thin wall if you want an open loop, or leave it as is if not.\n- Added a small notch so that it really snaps onto the frame and the guide doesn't move.\n\nWhile I was at it, I created...

(I recommend starting from scratch and live the idea!) Update 2 Added M3 STOP part (works together with the t- nut) and some more lamps for the right side. -- Tested the new Clip with the standard panel and it works very nice :) (skeleton models are...

I designed this model specifically for my Geetech Prusa i3 3D printer, using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1540434 as a starting point. ...To improve its performance, I adjusted the vent openings so they're situated much closer to the extruder head...

it's possible I could have tweaked the model further so it would work better, but I knew PrusaSlicer would handle the bridging much better and adding a simple color swap g-code would be super simple. Final note, I used different RGB LED strips this...

---Update--- The MK3 frame is a bit narrower, so I've reworked the lids for the MK3 ---Source Files--- [Base_Rasp2](https://a360.co/2LCA4qe) [Base_Rasp2_Nut_M2.5](https://a360.co/2UH9Xmz) [Base_Rasp2_Nut_M3](https://a360.co/2StsZzx) [Lid...

... In my opinion, the standard MK3 spool holder leaves much to be desired - its design doesn't accommodate various spool shapes I own, and it tends to wobble or bounce around when the printer is in high-speed mode.

item Profile 6 30x30 light was my choice, providing 6mm clearance in the T-slot for sturdy wood or PLEXIGLAS plates.\r\n\r\nI did not include a model of the printer due to file size but if you want to check the printer in its new surroundings you can...

I love having a webcam installed high above the heat bed so I can monitor my print in real-time using OctoPrint. My previous design featured a webcam mount along with LED lights, which worked out great but the webcam would sometimes shake when the...

The parts you need you see in the step file https://github.com/BondtechAB/Bondtech_Prusa_i3/tree/master/CAD-Files (Thanks to bondtech for sharing the files) the advantage of this extruder is that you don't have to disassemble it to remove the hotend....

With 0.05mm of spacing between box and lid, printed on my Prusa MK3S+ the lid perfectly falls in place without any wobbling around.PrintingJust slice it with standard profile (e.g. 0.2 layer height, 2 perimeters, 15% gyroid infill) and if you like...

I built the Lack enclosure as designed by Prusa (https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/), and decided to relocate my Power Supply outside the enclosure since I plan on printing ABS. However, the replacement frame brace...

Direct replacement for original part.Makes it a lot easier to rewire a single wire without disconnecting all wires from the controller board.The older version for MK2/MK2.5 makes access to the X Belt without removing the back...

I Designed An Improved Camera Head Holder, Here's How I crafted a customized camera head holder, tailored to fit my device's unique dimensions due to its shorter stature. The original design had limitations, but through careful modifications, I...

Check out the step file at https://github.com/BondtechAB/Bondtech_Prusa_i3/tree/master/CAD-Files (Thanks to bondtech for sharing the files). The main benefit of this extruder is that you can remove the hotend without disassembling it. ... The fan...

... on the left side of the spool. You can also add an unthreaded washer on the right side if you prefer. I recently built a Lack enclosure for my MK3 and added a new base that bolts to the top of a lack enclosure, maintaining the same threaded design.

Screen cover is modeled to go in combination with remix of a Prusa LCD cover with the same pattern → https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4851847

I'm not thrilled about the flimsy fan shroud with limited clearance that's obstructing my view of the nozzle. I've got a camera handy, and I crave a clear visual. This revamped duct is similar to the one on the original Prusa; it works like a charm.

... screws (I used sixteen-millimeter ones). Check out this product: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20169658/. This modification has been tested on MK2S / MK3 models. ... Edit 11-02-2018: A bracket is now also available for the left side.

... 3mm bolts. Required hardware (all MK3 kit spares): x4 M3 square nuts - inserted into the bottom half of the case. x4 M3x18 bolts - used to secure the two case halves together. ...x2 M3x10 bolts - utilized to fasten the case to the frame.

... to give making one a try: this is what I came up with. ...Meant to have an 8x3mm magnet on the back (the sharp-eyed will notice I'm using blu-tack in the photo, need to find my superglue...) Now all I need is for Jo Prusa to restock Prusa Orange PLA.