used prusa i3 mk2s 3d models

Easy-to-use and stable fiber management system.

A handy DIYer crafted a miniature camera holder that effortlessly attaches and detaches, designed specifically for use with GoPro-style mounts.

It really obstructs the view of what's printing so I'll likely only use it when there are difficult overhangs. FreeCAD source is included. I'm still trying to figure out how to make robust parameterized models in FreeCAD. ...This isn't perfect, but...

I designed this to fit perfectly with the spool holder included in the MK2S kit, which may also come with other Prusa models. Print two adapters and insert them into the spool holes. I chose a 0.4 layer height to provide sufficient grip on the...

LED Light Bar Prusa i3 MK2/MK3 by SethBon is compatible with: Universal Auto-Rewind Spool Holder by VincentGroenhuis https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338467, and Using the Prusa i3 Mk3 top stands for Universal Auto-Rewind Spool Holder by Racx...

Just remove three-quarter stepper screws, obtain three longer screws (I used sixteen-millimeter ones). Check out this product: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20169658/. This modification has been tested on MK2S / MK3 models. ... Edit...

Designed to have an 8x3mm magnet on the back (the keen-eyed will notice I'm using blu-tack when I took the photograph, need to find my superglue...) Now I just need Jo Prusa to have Prusa Orange PLA back in stock. Print Settings Printer Brand: Prusa...

I have remixed the Prusa i3 MK3 X-Carriage with Titan Extruder by g_tobet to the new R3 version. Extruder_Body_R3.stl is for original E3D Titan or clone with the same dimension between holes as the original one. I have also made a version for...

... from being pulled out, while still allowing the filament to move freely. Various other models are showcased in the accompanying images. Custom Section Alternative designs featured on the photos Prusa i3 MK2/S/3 Filament Spool Holder ClipOn Upgrade

Unlike previous versions, this design lacks hard stops preventing the first link from rolling beyond safe limits; a 3mm piece of filament was inserted into the cable track as a temporary...

Strain relief for stepper motor cables is now available for MK3, MK2S, and MK2 printers. To match the height of the X motor holder, the mounting screw part has been extended. A new version of the mount includes a camera mount, which is designed to...

... and preventing flex inside channels. Closed rod channel more places to add stability. Drew everything from scratch, using old model as reference, so here is a STEP file as well for better mod-ability! ... Print with support from build plate only.

As I delve into building a clone MK2S, alongside several other projects, I've encountered an issue with the standard lead nuts - they don't quite fit the bill for this particular endeavor. The X-motor and X-right components of the MK2S necessitate...

... to give making one a try: this is what I came up with. ...Meant to have an 8x3mm magnet on the back (the sharp-eyed will notice I'm using blu-tack in the photo, need to find my superglue...) Now all I need is for Jo Prusa to restock Prusa Orange PLA.

With this version you can print it well and easily cut away the thin wall if you want an open loop, or leave it as is if not.\n- Added a small notch so that it really snaps onto the frame and the guide doesn't move.\n\nWhile I was at it, I created...

During this process, I created three versions: * An open version with a recess and snap-notch * A "closed" version featuring a thin wall, recess, and snap-notch * A closed version designed for a 4 mm PTFE tube - this is the one I use in my enclosure...

... in name) for printing in ABS and with original linear bearings. I suggest printing both the X-end-idler and X-end-motor parts during upgrades, as this will ensure accurate height on both sides of the X-axis using the same settings and material.

Human: Add brackets and pulleys to enable overhead filament spool feeds, similar to those found at thingiverse.com/thing:1332025, to be used with the Prusa MM kit, which expects spools to be positioned behind the printer. These components utilize...

Prusa-compatible spool holder provides a secure grip, eliminating jamming and reducing the risk of printer shutdown due to filament tangles. ...The snug design ensures smooth filament feeding, resulting in uninterrupted 3D printing sessions.

This creation was crafted using Tinkercad's innovative tools. ...Make your edits online at https://www.tinkercad.com/designs/7LbH1eKg9UQ.

I used a 60mm filament guide as the foundation for my design. To relocate the LCD outside of my enclosure, I drew inspiration from this guide and adapted it to accommodate the LCD ribbon cable plugs through the bottom of my Lack Enclosure. ...This...

This platform is designed to accommodate Webcams, but you may discover alternative uses for it. I've included two designs for Webcams: - One design caters to a Fisch Eye / Wide angle Raspberry Pi camera - The other design fits a Logitech E35 camera ...

The platform can be screwed directly onto the spare hole on the X motor using a spare M3 bolt/screw. You'll need two M3 6mm screws/bolts to attach the camera support to the platform. The cables from the X motor can be secured with a zip-tie to the...

I'm using parts from this X-axis mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2311596 but not the same Rambo case, because the chain comes out on the other side of the USB connection and the cable chain requires a longer mount which is too long and...

I was blown away by junkie_ball's ingenious mounting solution, and I decided to modify it to suit my Logitech C920 perfectly. ...Unfortunately, I couldn't figure out how to print the design without any supports, but fortunately, it still works amazingly...

I successfully printed all the components for the LACK enclosure and discovered that activating the model at an angle yielded much better results. ...After experimenting with various positions, I finally landed on a configuration that produced...

No need to remove a single screw - simply slide your carriage right underneath the bed.

I only grabbed a few basic lead screws and chose to rebuild the X Idler and X motor mount from scratch.

I modified this slightly for my IKEA Lack enclosure as it was a bit too cramped inside with the standard length. Three easily understandable files in shorter lengths were available, which came in handy. Credit goes to wschadow for the original design...