12VDC or 24VDC universal laptop power supply w/ anderson powerpole connectors

thingiverse

By changing parts this can be built as either a 12V or a 24V to laptop power supply. Most people will probably find the 12V version more useful since that will work in a normal vehicle. This is a modification of my previous "DIY 24VDC laptop power supply" project and uses the same parts but has a few modifications: Instead of a power cord coming out of it, this has a place to mount anderson powerpole connectors. These are used a lot by ham radio operators, but you can absolutely make an adapter to go to a standard cig lighter adapter. The barrel no longer protrudes from the box. Parts list: For the 24VDC version: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QVTNU - DC buck step-down DC voltage converter For the 12VDC version: http://smile.amazon.com/Yeeco-Converter-Adjustable-Regulation-Stabilizer/dp/B00RXJJGE2 - DC boost step-up DC voltage converter For both versions: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-DC-Power-Female-Jack-2-1-x-5-5-mm-Barrel-Plug-Connector-Adapter-Terminal-/381177777840 - you only need one of these, but I can't find them in packs of only 1 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pr-Philmore-15A-DC-Power-Connectors-20-16-AWG-Wire-Sermos-Anderson-Powerpole-/281867449190?hash=item41a09bf366:g:dSkAAOSwcBhWVie2 - Anderson powerpole connectors Build instructions I used 16AWG wires for everything -- you'll never exceed 15 amps, so that should be safe. Cut one pair of wires about 4" long and strip about 1cm from each end of both wires. Use a small screwdriver to connect those wires between the output of the board with the matching (+ to +, - to -) terminals on the barrel connector. Cut another pair of wires about 8" long and strip one end of each. Attach them to the input terminals on the board. Fold the wires under the board and then mount the board in the case so that the output is towards the larger open part of the case. The barrel connector and the wires going under the board should both come out on that side. Mount the barrel by carefully inserting the tapered socket into the hole on the side of the case with the screw terminals up; pressing towards the bottom of the case should then snap it in between the wall and the small protrusion on the bottom of the case and hold it in place. Make sure as you do this that the input wires stay free. Install the powerpole connectors on the input and then mount them in the matching opening. The knob sticking up in the middle of the platform should insert cleanly into the hole between the red and black connector and hold it in place; if it doesn't, carefully trim it a bit with a razor knife to fix it. Connect the appropriate (12VDC or 24VDC, depending on which board you have) power to the powerpoles (ask in comments for suggestions on how to get it there if you aren't familiar with them). Using a voltmeter, place one probe on each of the screws in the output terminal to measure the voltage. Use a small screwdriver to set the voltage to the desired output; MacBook Pro laptops can handle anywhere from 16-20V, and most laptops are okay with 19V, but you may want to do a bit of research on your laptop to be sure. We're not responsible if you blow something up! Once you've set the voltage, install the lid and screw it down. Make sure that the knob above the powerpole connectors go in correctly to help hold them in place. Connect 12vdc to the powerpoles and plug your laptop adapter cable (you can find them with just about any battery system which recharges laptops; if anyone has good links, send them to us in the comments). Here are the ones we know of: Apple Magsafe 1: http://smile.amazon.com/HIOTECH-MagSafe-Adapter-Connector-MacBook/dp/B016ODO8DG Apple Magsafe 2: http://smile.amazon.com/i-smile%C2%AE-Connector-MagSafe-Macbook-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B00OL9QO6U