97-01 Jeep Cherokee XJ Switch Panel

prusaprinters

<p>This started out as a minor modification to Titan's existing design for a friend and quickly snowballed in to nearly a complete redesign.<br><br>What was changed.<br><br>-Fixed a ton of miscellaneous geometry errors.<br>-Rebuilt factory switch sockets.<br>-Added lead-in to factory switch sockets to make them less likely to break during insertion.<br>-Added locator bumps to factory switch sockets, like used on the factory switch plate, to make the switches fit securely.<br>-Redid bezel around factory sockets to make them look more correct.&nbsp;<br>-Removed existing non factory sockets, added cutout for Carling L-series panel mount switches that were being used. Cut out 44x22mm, Switch faceplate approximant size 50x26mm.<br>-Completely rebuilt lighter socket mount.&nbsp;<br>Existing socket only retained lighter socket with friction, had no clearance for the factory plug cap, and very poorly matched the locators on the socket. Corrected the locators, and switched to slip fit like factory panel, then added locking tabs like factory panel. Added clearance for the plug cap.&nbsp;<br>-Rebuilt the reinforcement on the back of the part to accommodate new switches while maintaining a reasonable amount of strength.<br><br>Note, the version uploaded has the switches shifted a few mm to the left from the version pictured to allow for a little easier lighter access.&nbsp;<br><br>This was printed on a I3mk3 in ABS, .2mm layer height, 15% Infill, Supports Everywhere, Brim Enabled.&nbsp;<br><br>While you can bridge the openings for the factory switch latches, you get better results with supports. That said, I recommend rectilinear, and manually changing the Support “Pattern Angle” so the supports are generated at a 90 degree angle from the factory switch latch opening. Other wise the supports can be excessively difficult to remove.&nbsp;</p>