Acrilyc Ultimaker V1 rev3

thingiverse

This is an adaptation of the standard Ultimaker drawings, but with some handy features thrown in. Notes: -All lettering on the parts has been removed for less clutter in the acryllic version -Slider blocks have 1mm more depth to improve tension of the belts -Adjusted the size of the holes in the slider blocks to allow for a smaller kerf in acrylic -A new construction to set the height of the Z-endstop, either mechanically or optical -On/off indication next to the button -Adjusted tabs on the spool holder (but will probably break anyway, just use glue) -Changed the layout of the extruder motor holder so it has more meat near the bowden cable -Removed silly holes in building platform center. please note that UM silently have released an update (V1rev3-3, april2012) whose changes have not yet been plowed into this version. One point to notice though is that UM decided to publish this file under a CC-AT-NC licence, which means you cannot make commercial copies of it. Since I made this derivative, it has to be published under the same licence, which means UM can not use commercially themselves. Please change that. Instructions Laser cut from 6mm and 4mm acrilyc. Do more puzzling at assembly time as all markings have been removed. All panels except the front are cut inside up, if you keep track of that you make less mistakes while assembling. If you think your laser cuts with a smaller kerf/cutting line width, do cut out a test hole first to see if the bronze slider bushing fits tightly in it. If you need to force anything in, you run a great risk of breaking that part. You can mount either the stock mechanical endstop or a reprap optical endstop (v2.1) on the Z-slider. The opto endstop also needs 5V, so you will have to improvise a cable for it. The rhino (.3dm) part contains the drawing I used to lay averything out. I imported that as .dxf into the UM drawings. Patches for hardware are a pain?