ADAMnet Drive Emulator Case

thingiverse

ADAMnet Drive Emulator Case Update: 23.3.19 - I've done a bit of a re-work of my take on a case for this wonderful device. The intention is to make it easier and faster to print while also making assembly more straightforward. As a bonus the design has been tidied up a bit and allows for parts to be printed in different filaments for a more "authentic" look without the need for painting. I also separated out the power switch so a real one could be mounted it you wish. I suggest printing the .stl files as oriented with support set to everywhere. For most parts 15% and GRID would be a good choice for support. But for the Ends.stl file I would strongly suggest setting the support to 10% and lines (if using CURA) as other settings might make digging out said support a bit tricky. The wonderful Sean Myers has welded an LCD panel to an Arduino Mega, done the hard work of writing the software, and come up with a Floppy drive emulator for the COLECO ADAM... ...not only is this an awesome project in itself that gives those with COLECO ADAM computers a far easier time of it but when it comes to using their machines he's been kind enough to put up a GitHub page with full instructions for people to build their own. Thank you! The project itself requires easy to obtain and cheap components and is very straightforward for anyone with even the most basic of soldering skills. Links: AtariAge Forum Page - https://atariage.com/forums/topic/287324-adamnet-drive-emulator-by-sean-myers/?hl=%2Bdisk+%2Bemulator GitHub Page - https://github.com/Kalidomra/AdamNet-Drive-Emulator?fbclid=IwAR1Z6pQwLwBW9v2OjTHpPTppQ2SPFwHoxVu2C8_0bRCX7rUcOYLgghk3sfI Facebook Link - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2080166502039901&set=gm.10157181545517845&type=3&theater&ifg=1 ...In a fit of excitement I thought it might be nice to do an ADAM Floppy Drive-esque case to house this device and publish the result by way of a small thank you - this is the 'final' version pending suggestions. Please note: I'd be pleased if Sean was to find this case 'useful' and am happy for him to use the files in any way he sees fit... for everyone else feel free to use them too but non-commercial use only! On to the Build... Print settings: Print all parts in the orientation they appear in the .stl files. Face.stl and Top.stl should be fine at about 20% infill, medium settings. They both need support, I'd suggest grid and set support roof. I'd also suggest enable ironing for both for best results and a smidge of fuzzy skin for Face.stl to give it that textured plastic look Base.stl only needs to be reasonably strong so print however you like, but this one will also need support for the lip. Assembly: Um... -Desolder / cut the pin-headers from the LCD module and do the same to your lovely Arduino! Also trim down the connection pins that poke up next to the LCD. -Pull the plastic header sockets from the Arduino and desoler / cut all the pins!!! -Take some wire (about 3-4cm long) and remake all the connections between the two -You may also need to butcher your microSD board and directly solder that to the Arduino if space is limited - wires about 5-6cm -Solder in the resistors and wires for the ADAM Net connector, long enough to reach from the front to the back of the Arduino. 6 Pin RJ11 connectors can be bought for buttons on eBay, just be sure you bend the pins flat and solder carefully being sure not to add height to the connector (it gets sandwiched between Arduino and the case top. Note: Earlier versions of the firmware required only two resistors, later versions need alternate values and a transistor, as I understand it for better stability. All parts are very easy and cheap to source, just be sure what version of the firmware you are building for. Why such butchery? 1) The LCD panel doesn't sit in the right place to be able to make a nice ADAM FDD box so to move it requires wire connections. 2) I've tried to make this box as small as possible to save on print time - it's still about a 3-6 hour print depending on settings / printer At this point I also de-soldered the tact-switches from the LCD module and replaced them with taller 8mm ones. Again buttons on eBay. This was to allow them to poke through the shell - it's no good if you can't operate the darn thing... ...another option is to get some (small) tact-switch tops and push them through the holes in the case before installing the module - it work's fine but is frustratingly fiddly to keep them in place. Moving on: -Take your RJ11 connector on it's flying leads and push that though it's mounting hole in the top shell of the case. You'll notice it's legs will engage with the case with a bit of fiddling. -Carefully, but firmly push your LCD / Arduino sandwich in to the main case taking care to line up the tact-switches. With a bit of pressure the edges of the main LCD PCB will snap in to the walls of the case. -Carefully push down on the Arduino PCB so that it's power and USB sockets line up with the holes in the back. You'll note the RJ11 socket fits between and is now held firmly by the case and the Arduino. -Slide the base into the top, being careful not to snag anything and keeping the microSD adaptor dangling on it's wires out the front. The front lip of the base has a couple of tabs to engage the Arduino and so hold that firmly in place too. Now comes the somewhat messy bit: I couldn't think of a 'snap together' solution for the microSD adaptor in the space I'd left for myself. -Take your faceplate and push the microSD adaptor fully in to it's slot and glue it in place - sorry! -The faceplate can then be, carefully, pushed over the open end of the case and should also snap in to place. ...There should be room for the microSD board to fit between the LCD module and Arduino but be careful not to snag any wires. And it's all together - phew! Included are some piccies of my first trial assembly. It's a bit wonky because the microSD board wasn't glued at that point. I hope it's of use to someone and the assembly process hasn't put people off! Yes, I printed it with wood filament as that was the closest match I had to the ADAM (not close!) It seems beige printer filament is really, really expensive. When I have a chance to play I'll probably sand / paint / print some stickers to finish the job. I've included suitable .jpeg files to make stickers. They are the correct aspect ratio for this case but be sure to print them to size. 'Laminating' can be very easily achieved with some sellotape / scotch tape. Bonus: I've left holes in the face plate for power and activity LED's. Tapping the Arduino for a power LED is easy enough as it already has one. I've also included a schematic for AdaFruit's microSD board as an example of how to wire up an activity LED. Advice: -I'd strongly suggest getting the device up and running, and tested, before installing it to a case. It's really frustrating if something needs trouble-shooting after you've buttoned everything up -The firmware is actually really easy to install but if you have any issues I posted a step-by-step guide in the AtariAge Forum thread linked above -You'll probably lose the will to live desoldering all those pins, cleaning up the holes, and soldering wires. Just cut everything off as flush as you can, tin everything including your wires, and solder directly to the stumps. Yes that's nasty but much less hassle and who cares when you're dealing with cheap commodity electronics as long as it works? But: Please, please don't inflict such butchery on precious retro hardware - do it properly! -The contrast adjustment pot (blue top-left) on the LCD module is probably turned all the way down possibly making you think something is broken when you first power up. Don't worry, it will probably need as many as 10 full turns clockwise before the display will show anything. -In spite of the well in the top case to accommodate; if you find the contrast pot is too tall when it comes to fitting the LCD module to the case you have options: ->Nasty - cut a hole in the case ->Neat - desolder the pot and resolder it to the same pins on the underside of the LCD module. If already adjusted to your satisfaction are you really going to want to fiddle with it? Once again my sincere thanks to Sean Myers for this awesome project and for being kind enough to share. It's made a huge difference to my enjoyment of my ADAM.