Allen Key flip-out box for Original Prusa i3 MK3S+

prusaprinters

<p>I designed a box to store the Allen keys come with buying one of the printers. The “flip-out” part was my attempt to mimic certain drill bit cases where the bit holder is movable. It might have been overkill for 5 keys but I would probably lose them otherwise. The case would be consider a “snap shut/open box”.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Printing suggestions/related advice:</strong></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I used PETG for all 3 pieces but the file “lid2 (labeled)” are for those who want to use PLA. The rest of the files should be fine with either PETG or PLA.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I used no supports when I printed.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>When printing any of the inserts make sure the model is standing with the holes touching the print bed. I used a 4mm wide brim to help keep the model in place. (see picture).</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:74.66%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/258182/rich_content/b375e620-a9c3-4a6c-87ae-6ee49b5e3da1/insert-gcode-view.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%225e183059-3141-44dc-bb59-4e839d316602%22%2C%22w%22%3A1405%2C%22h%22%3A1251%7D"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>When I printed this, I went pretty heavy with the vertical shells and horizontal shells...&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Box:<ul><li>&nbsp;Vertical shells: 4 (this was mainly to increase rigidity especially for when you attach the lid and flip-out insert.&nbsp;</li><li>Horizontal shells: 6 top and 7 bottom. Was that necessary? No, probably not. It was just to make the bottom piece solid.&nbsp;</li><li>Infill: irrelevant with this number of shells.</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:87.62%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/258182/rich_content/434a37e8-5613-4b1c-83a3-a4c0448927b6/box-gcode.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%221e887dab-0ddb-4d85-a1be-d5618534d709%22%2C%22w%22%3A2215%2C%22h%22%3A1669%7D"></figure><ul><li>Lid:<ul><li>&nbsp;Vertical shells: 6. This turns the axle solid which is good because when you attach the lid you pretty much have to man handle it in.</li><li>Horizontal shells: 6 top and 7 bottom, once again to create a solid piece.</li><li>Infill is irrelevant again</li><li>When printing, position the model so that the top of the lid is on the floor of the printing bed.</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:82.79%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/258182/rich_content/895f7336-d007-42cd-b335-37eb5e60b671/lid-gcode.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2283f66ed4-c8ee-4b91-adf2-28d40d73f2b0%22%2C%22w%22%3A2024%2C%22h%22%3A1377%7D"></figure><ul><li>Flip-out insert:<ul><li>Vertical shells: 4</li><li>Horizontal shells: 6 top, 7 bottom. (This was just a preset setting that I didn’t change, this many isn’t needed normally)</li><li>Infill: triangles at 30%</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:83.5%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/258182/rich_content/4e5b98c4-ebc7-4ca8-a62e-1623651d8661/insert-gcode2.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22c3453ab5-d277-444f-9a5b-11cd73a7a734%22%2C%22w%22%3A1864%2C%22h%22%3A1271%7D"></figure><p><strong>Assembly:</strong></p><p>I already touched on this, but both the lid and the insert must be forced into place but are captive once installed. I did the lid first by simply laying the lid on top of the box and trying to push down until both “numbs” end up in the captive part. If one side falls in without its partner, you may have to slightly try and bend the box creating more space between the captive parts and all the while you’re still pushing down.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I have weird settings for my printer so I didn’t include gcode but the preset that I modified was “0.15mm quality @MK3” and I modified a generic PETG present for the filament. My temps were first layer nozzle: 230°C, bed:&nbsp;85°C. Other layers were nozzle:&nbsp;240°C, bed:&nbsp;90°C.</p>