Anycubic Chiron Comprehensive Upgrades

Anycubic Chiron Comprehensive Upgrades

thingiverse

A quick update on this project: I plan to test several additional upgrades I have designed for this at some point in the future. My family and I just moved from Korea to Hawaii and it looks like we may move again from Hawaii back to the mainland very soon (Our stuff hasn't even made it here yet so we won't even be able to unpack...) That being said, this project will have slower updates over the next couple of months as we work through this major move once again. I also would like to get a second printer to assist in the process of testing so if I do a teardown to install an upgrade that doesn't work I can print the second iteration on the other printer. This will make the entire process much smoother and allow me to push out much better models. Please reach out to me if you want to contribute to the project or have any questions. This is my comprehensive Anycubic Chiron Upgrades project. The goal of this project is to include all of the upgrades I am using on my Chiron and redesign parts from other people's projects to provide as much compatibility as possible. It is not as comprehensive as I would like quite yet. I have not modified or included some of the "upgrades" I am using because the work involved was a bit more that I feel is absolutely necessary. Instead, I will include links to those projects. Some of these parts are made from the ground up, others I have used specific parts as a reference and some are just directly taken as they are from other projects. I will try to list all of the sources for this project. If I am missing a source please let me know and I will cite them. I added Collada (.DEA) format files to make it easier for others to download and edit the models. If you have great idea's on how to make the design better or would like to contribute to this project please feel free to reach out. I will be happy to add anyone else's models to this project and give you full credit. All of my files are also available on Onshape as public models which can be cloned and directly edited there. Onshape provides a free version and is a very easy to use fully capable web-based 3d modeling suit. I recommend getting a box of assorted metric hex bolts and nuts from any source of your choosing. I bought a set that included M2, M3, and M4 of various sizes and also got t-nuts for those sizes. With that, you should be able to do almost anything you need to upgrade your printer or assemble a large assortment of projects on Thingiverse or elsewhere as most people use those sizes. You can also get some M5 sizes because sometimes printer upgrades require M5 as is the case with the Y-axis belt tensioner. My original chain project can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3882801 Other notable upgrades I have done that I did not modify or feel necessary to include files for here (yet) are, in no particular order: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3860330 (If you decide to do the direct drive conversion this is a must-have. With this mount, you don't have to move the cable chain from the back to the front as he has you do in hit instructions. Instead, you move the chassis mount point to where the extruder used to be and everything lines up great. You will have to adjust the chain a bit on the ends but it is very easy and worth it) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3513406 (this is a great fan and the first upgrade I ever did on the Chiron) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3652325 (this spacer is very useful for mounting the V6 hotend, although you won't need it if you do the direct drive conversion. However, keep in mind it is much shorter so your offset for your probes under the advanced settings for the automatic bed leveling will be much higher even after raising the bed as much as possible without making it too loose) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3405017 (Great little tool holder, I use it and I love it. I highly recommend this minor improvement. I have been switching over to using a pegboard for many things but I still keep all the printer stuff in this holder) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3225296 (These feet worked well for me, even though I printed early on when I was not able to get the best quality they worked well. I printed mine in PETG. I have since placed my printed on a table that is just barely big enough to hold it so I cannot use these. I may end up switching to a TPU design but I thought these were worth mentioning) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499331 (This is a great little holder for the leveling sensor. I still use this even after doing the direct drive conversion. Although I had to modify it physically to attach to the top with double-sided adhesive. Eventually, I may remix this and include it here to be used the conversion mount) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3130556 (This parts cooling duct is amazing. I love it. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with much other than what the creator lists. I had to modify it to work with my current setup or the V6 hotend before I switched to direct drive. I will likely modify and include this in a future update as well) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218560 (This is a simple yet easy to print filament guide. I originally used it with a small length of ptfe tubing to help guide the filament for a brief time while my filament was mounted on top of my printer. I did not like that setup and switch back to side-mounted. I still have not found a good filament mount setup I really like) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235555 (This "upgrade" was a lot of work. It definitely reduced the wobble and I only installed the front half. However, I had to use US size rods because getting metric sizes was simply too expensive to be shipped to Hawaii. It works well enough but can get in the way. I will likely move the rods from the front to the back. You have to be careful when tightening everything not to introduce torsion or push / pull the printer forward to back. I would consider this a much more involved upgrade then doing the direct drive conversion simply because soldering some wires and moving a motor is much simpler and cheaper than installing all this additional hardware. I would only do this if you absolutely need to after you have worked through other solutions to improve print quality)

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