Anycubic Linear Plus (V2) with Marlin 1.1.9 - "correct" - updated

thingiverse

Update: after few complaints and check it seems old cfg files are not compatible with newest Marlin. Here are updated cfg files too. Linear Plus (V2) with Marlin 1.1.9 - "correct" edition Disclaimer: Everything you do, you do it at your own risk. This setup perfectly works on my printer, but it does not mean that it will work for you too. This version is for Linear Plus with V2 leveling sensor (15,9 mm). So... we have a plenty of custom Marlin versions for our Linear Plus printers. The problem is that every one of them is not working entirely correctly (at least what have I tried). I had tried a lot of different versions, spent days and days on testing but I have learned a lot. Most of custom Marlin firmwares are derivatives of Pulley version. Best near shot was DaHai's version, but it is based on Pulley too. So I took his version because thermal, PID and thermal protection are properly configured and I had reconfigured it for my Linear Plus with V2 leveling sensor. Of course, for this you will need Arduino IDE, stock Marlin and USB connection with your printer over PC. Download official versions from the official sites. I will not explain how to use and configure Arduino IDE and Marlin, there are a bunch of videos and articles how to do it, it is really simple. Required configuration files (Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h) are in attachment. What have I done with Config files: - Rod length - which is the most important data for deltas made by AnyCubic for Linear Plus is exactly 267mm. I have measured my rods, and they are 267mm. Based on this information, auto-leveling and predefined data, Marlin automatically calculates every parameter on your printer. - Maximized auto-leveling and calibration procedure - AnyCubic heat beds are uneven. Even if you use glass, your printer frame is not perfect. 7 point calibration (it is maximum) with bed leveling does a really good job. - Maximum acceleration - in Pulley version acceleration is too low. Our linear with rod and sliders is much faster and much more precise. I have set it on original AnyCubic max default acceleration, you can decrease but not increase over maximum in slicer, because it is already on maximum in firmware. - Bezier curve support activated - in combination with S curve function, based on my test prints, it can give slightly better print quality on higher speeds. - Linear Advance activated (v 1.5) - but set to 0 so you can modify it over in slicer. Explanation and how to use it here: http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html Before you upload firmware to the printer, always verify & compile it. If everything is ok, and after you have configured Marlin you can send it to the printer. When the new firmware is installed on your printer, do the following steps in exact order (you can probably do it another way like DaHai did in his video, but my way is based on Marlin documentation and gave me best results; with DaHai I had slight deviations in leveling): How to calibrate: After the firmware was uploaded, printer will automatically restart. You don't have to turn off printer etc, just do it in this order. DO NOT USE auto home command in this procedure, only when is said so, otherwise you can terminate your calibration data. Click MENU -> CONTROL -> INITIALIZE EEPROM -> in same submenu STORE SETTINGS (and it is a last time you store settings in Control submenu). You had cleared out old settings, printer is ready for new one, put the leveling sensor on effector and connect it. Main MENU -> PREPARE -> DELTA CALIBRATION -> SET DELTA HEIGHT -> after it is done, in same submenu -> STORE SETTINGS Then Main MENU -> PREPARE -> DELTA CALIBRATION -> AUTO CALIBRATION -> after it is done, in same submenu -> STORE SETTINGS During calibration display blackouts can occur. Don't worry, your 8bit mainboard is just thinking too much, everything is ok. Then Main MENU -> PREPARE -> BED LEVELING -> after it is done, in same submenu -> STORE SETTINGS After bed leveling and settings are stored, effector stays near bed. NOW you can use in PREPARE menu AUTO HOME command, effector goes in homing position, take down sensor and you can check with manual procedure do you need to make some corrections on delta height (paper method). DaHai have made a great video about it and how to perform changes, check it out to learn more. In my case, I didn't have to do any additional corrections because it prints perfectly from the start. My advice: you have babystepping enabled in this firmware. Play around with flat test models to get best possible results. Babystepping gave me much better and faster results than paper manual method. Here is the measurement result: https://streamable.com/rj35b And some test print results: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/1f/71/51/7b/39/WhatsApp_Image_2019-05-02_at_18.21.411.jpeg https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/80/70/6e/38/d8/WhatsApp_Image_2019-05-02_at_18.21.41.jpeg Good luck and have fun!