Anycubic Vyper - Upgraded Hotend Shroud

Anycubic Vyper - Upgraded Hotend Shroud

prusaprinters

<h3>Overview</h3><p>This is an upgraded hotend shroud design that I made with better part cooling fan ducts. &nbsp;It uses the stock cooling fans from the Vyper, rather than having to solder connections for different fans. &nbsp;It also has a mounting point for the LED included on the Vyper. &nbsp;From the test prints I have done, all done at 0.3mm layer height, overhangs improved significantly, and shorter bridging sections improved as well. &nbsp;Longer bridging sections didn't have much of an improvement though. &nbsp;Not sure how well the differences come across in the pictures, but in person the differences were significant.</p><p>I am unsure if this design would also work on the Anycubic Kobra Plus or Kobra Max, but since they appear to have the same X-carriage assembly, this design might work. &nbsp;If you have either of these printers and are able to test it out, please leave a comment saying whether or not it worked so I can update this post.</p><h3>Printing</h3><p>I printed mine in MH Pro Series Tough PLA, though regular PLA, PETG, or ABS should work as well. &nbsp;Supports are necessary, and should be supporting the major bridging sections and the fan ducts. I would recommend adding support blockers for the 4 holes and nut enclosures at the base of the model as well as inside the fan shrouds to make support removal easier. &nbsp;If you are worried about printing tolerances, I have included a M3 test file for testing whether m3 screws and nuts will fit. &nbsp;The LED mount is designed to be very tight to prevent it from vibrating during printing, so you might have to do some filing and/or trimming to get it to fit properly.</p><p>(Note: the Hotend Shroud file might say it is not watertight and needs repairing when opened in a slicer. &nbsp;I'm not sure why this is, but it should print perfectly fine regardless)<img class="image_resized" style="width:50%;" src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/237917/rich_content/f385618c-42cb-425c-ac78-e4f0734c1dcf/untitled-presentation-10.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22043a49b2-8e47-4a68-8236-008e691a1524%22%2C%22w%22%3A1920%2C%22h%22%3A1080%7D"></p><h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>Parts Needed</h3><ol><li>1x “Hotend Shroud” part</li><li>1x "Fan Cover" part</li><li>1x “Fan Cover - Mirrored” part</li><li>10x M3 nuts</li><li>5x M3x10mm screws (rounded or socket head.</li><li>1x M3x10mm flat head screw</li><li>4x M3x12mm (or longer) screws (rounded or socket head)</li><li>The screw and washer used to secure the LED on the stock Vyper shroud (reused for LED)</li><li>The 2 stock part cooling fans</li><li>The stock heatsink cooling fan</li><li>The stock LED</li><li>Optional Zip ties for cable management</li></ol><h3>Assembly</h3><p>Here is the link to the YouTube video showing how to assemble this model:</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3se-hQiiRpo"></oembed></figure><p>Also, something I forgot to film, you will need to change how the wires are routed on the part cooling fans. &nbsp;Stock, they are directed to the side of the fans into a indent. &nbsp;The wires will need to be unhooked from the indent to hang freely as shown in the video. &nbsp;You could then use some electrical tape to secure it to the fan if you feel like it.</p><h3>Start G-code:</h3><p>If you are using the built-in Cura Machine profile for the Vyper, you will likely have to modify the start G-code, specifically this line: <i>G0 Z0.2</i>, and increase the Z value from 0.2. &nbsp;I increased it to 5: <i>G0 Z5</i>, and it has worked well.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Update 10/16/2022: I have added the Fusion360 Project files. &nbsp;The sketch errors shouldn't be a problem, I haven't figured out what the issues are but they haven't affected the model at all.</p>

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