Arduino Pro Mini Enclosure

thingiverse

A 3D-printed enclosure for the Arudino(tm) Pro Mini from Sparkfun. Comes with two printed L-brackets and spacer rings. This printed enclosure is strong and robust and exposes all pins on the Arduino for hacker access. The full Sketchup source, including the latest version(s), can be found at http://terawatt-industries.github.io/enclosure-3d-pro-mini-arduino/. I created the original design for this part almost 2 years ago. At that time I had it made on an SLA printer - it looks amazing but it cost $90USD to have made. Since then I discovered how beautiful laser-cut acrylic looks, so we've been working a similar concept in 2.5D acrylic. Now that we have printers and open-source software that can handle the small parts in this design, we decided to give it further revision and testing. It works great! Instructions BOM: 1x printed enclosure base 1x printed enclosure top (optional) 1 or 2pcs. printed L-brackets and same number of spacers (optional) 2x M2.5x10mm or 2-56x1/2" screws for L-brackets 2x M3x12mm screws 1x Arduino Pro Mini (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11113) The pictured printed-parts were printed with PLA using a brim > 6mm; and Slic3r 0.99 w/support material for overhang > 15-degree. The bottom is rounded so it won't work well, or at all, without support material. Aside from cleaning support material and brim, you shouldn't have much to de-burr. To assemble: 1) Print parts from the latest STL files in our Github repo. We recommend translucent PLA to let the LEDs shine through. (optional) Print extras - The L-brackets are more robust for assembly, but obviously take more parts. Hot glue will work OK. 2) De-burr the printed parts, namely the screw holes. 3) Solder female or male headers onto the Arduino Pro Mini. If you want the Mini's LEDs to show through the holes in the case then solder the headers on the side where the PCB components are placed. If you accidentally solder them on the other side don't worry - if you printed with translucent PLA you'll still be able to see the status lights. 4) (optional) Insert two M2.5 screws from the outside of the base to hold the L-brackets. On the inside, attach one (1) printed ring-spacer and the L-bracket, then a M2.5 nut. Leave this loose so you can move it out of the way. 4a) If not using screws to attach the MCU, hot glue works OK. First test the assembly without glue to see where you want to apply it. Usually one or two dabs of glue works OK. 5) Attach Arduino Pro Mini. 6) Move the L-brackets into position over the PCB and tighten the M2.5 screws. 7) Attach lid with M3 or 4-40 screws. The holes in the base are self-threading.