Aukey KM-G9 Keyboard USB-C Port Mod

thingiverse

USB-C Port Mod for Aukey KM-G9. This specific keyboard is similar to the RedDragon K552 but I don't think this mod will work for the RedDragon since the port size/orientation is different. Not sure if anyone is looking for this but I designed this female USB-C holder which slots right in where the old grommeted cable used to sit in which you'll need to take out using a blade/knife but be careful as you'll need the cable to use it for later. There's some soldering required with this mod so if you don't know how to then I'm sorry. And possible sanding Requirements: 1x - Aukey KM-G9 Keyboard 1x - [USB-C Female Connector](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002292881776.html) 1x - Soldering Iron + Solder (maybe flux) 1x - 5.1k Ohm Resistor (somewhat optional) 1x - Hot Glue stick/Glue Gun (optional but preferable) 1x - Philips '+' Screwdriver 1x - Blade/Knife ?x - Sanding hand tools (Probably needed) 1. Unplug the cable from the keyboard's PCB (5-pin white connector). 2. Remove the rubber grommet that was molded and slotted in where the cable goes into the keyboard with a blade/knife - careful not to cut the cable! 3. Afterwards, cut the cable to the length that you want, measure it where you think it's going to reach the USB-C port. 4. Solder the wires (colour coded on the picture) to the USB-C port board. 5. Solder the 5.1k Ohm resistor on the other side if you want to use a USB-C to USB-C cable, this will be needed in order to function. I say this is optional since you can still use a regular USB-A to USB-C and the keyboard will work. 6. Depending on the print of the USB-C part, you might need to sand down the edges of the print. 7. Slot the female port inside the 3D print (it will be tight, that's how it's held in place - you can sand down the hole if you'd like). 8. Plug the cable (5 pin white) connector into the keyboard PCB again. 9. Enjoy! :) If anyone got any recommendations or more ideas on what to do with this keyboard then let me know below! Been tinkering with the idea of including an OLED screen where the black plastic is and replace the microcontroller with an Arduino Micro but that's for another day.