Aurora A3 Z-Rod Rattle Fix

thingiverse

This is really not much of a thingy, but it saved my sanity!!! You see, I got this great RepRap I3 style 3D Printer: Aurora A3. And it is pretty sweet. Built like a tank, runs smooth and pretty quiet....except this Dam rattle!! It was driving me crazy!!! The two Z-Axis screws are just barely long enough to reach the aluminum top brackets. And those holes in the brackets are 9mm while the screw rods are 8mm. So while the print head moves back and forth on the X-Axis (or even the fans on the head spin) it creates vibrations that amplify up into those aluminum brackets and down into the sheet-metal frame. It's a grinding vibrating racket!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! Well, slow me, I finally noticed little holes in the center-top of the Z-Axis screws and thought "I bet if I made a bushing with a pin in the middle it would hold that screw centered in the hole and not vibrate against the side" Duh! Cause it did! Now I can print all day without wanting to Van Gogh my ears!!! If you have an Aurora A3, you probably know what I'm talking about. Hopefully this will save your sanity as well... Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: JG Aurora A3 Prusa I3 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: .2mm or .1mm Infill: 15% or 100% Notes: For maximum strength and density, I printed this at .1mm and 100% infill, but that's probably not necessary. I would suggest, however, that you print with three vertical walls as the pins are only 2mm thick and need all the strength they can get. You will need to print two of these. The STL file also has a post in it. This is a sacrificial tower to allow that tiny pin to cool between layers so you'll get a straighter, cleaner print. Post-Printing Rattle NOT OK So, refer to the photos for where/how it goes in. Just drop the plug/bushing in and then push the Z-Rod screw around a little to center it and the plug will just fall into place and keep it centered.