Ba'al Blaster: Rival Charger to P90 Conversion

Ba'al Blaster: Rival Charger to P90 Conversion

thingiverse

Here's my P90 conversion for a Rival Charger! I've seen a few concepts and other similar bodges, but I figured I'd take some time to sit down and work it all out. It's mag-fed and full-auto, with 95% drop-in 3D printed parts. Most of it can just be printed and dropped into the existing mounting points, but there are some (non nerf standard) screws, a pen spring, and Bondo. Had it out at a Nerf war recently, and even with the short ammo capacity, it's a blast to run around with! The name isn't just a play on words, it's also a tribute to the actor who played Ba'al in Stargate SG-1, Cliff Simon. He tragically passed away a few days ago. I watched all of the Stargate series in quarantine this year and seeing the presence and charisma Cliff Simon bought to his role really made him my favorite Stargate villain. Seeing how prominently the P90 is featured in Stargate really was also what inspired me to make this work. *"This is a weapon of nerf war. It is made to blast your enemy."* -Col. Jack O'Neill, probably. Some Notes: 14 - March - 2021 ==================================================== Engagement with the Magazine interface (Insert1) can be finicky. > ~ Working on engagement ramp to release balls more easily > ~ There may be remaining balls upon reloading, the dimensions more or less make that a certainty, so be ready for it. > ~ There's a slot for a zip tie near the N20 Motor, but just epoxy seems to work just fine. Block the support in the inside corner of the channel. Mag eject spring: > ~ Should be printed in a stiff material and may need to be supplemented with a battery spring or an additional stiff spring, as sufficient compression to engage Ammo release on the magazine creates a LOT of friction to be overcome by the eject spring. > ~ Stiff version also included which should be more than enough at the expense of tilting the rear of the mag up slightly. You need to pick the right spot to cut a slot into the back of the magazine. Too low, and you won't catch the retainer. Too high and the bottom chamfer may make enough room for the mag to become unseated. > ~ Forward nub is for alignment, predrill with center hole to align, then go through with a 1/4 inch bit. Definitely use a 3S. 2S is very anemic. Safety switch extension meant for use with Worker S grip, but other Picatinny grips should work as well. The leading-edge of Magazine Release may need to be trimmed slightly. Shell trimming should be obvious, but feel free to ask for clarification. Parts that require Support: > ~ Magazine Eject Spring (only on the nub) > ~ Lower Delete Rail > ~ Insert 1 See Imgur album for other notes and Video: https://imgur.com/a/2Fv4Cld 22 - April - 2021 ==================================================== Updated Parts: > ~ Mag Release: Made stronger. > ~ Wheel: Made smaller because large wheel was squishing balls right causing some curving right. > ~ Insert 1: Feature to engage ball release on magazine made more reliable. Added zip tie hole for motor (optional) and fixed flywheel intersection Proton Pack: Got the blaster working with the OOD Proton pack! Balls feed in through the bottom and through a modded mag with a hole in the bottom to have loaded when in proton pack mode. You may need to add craft foam/epoxy putty to maintain the air seal between the feeder tube and magazine. Alternatively, you can glue the generic connector to the top of a rival mag and have it feed in from the top. I've also added a Cap to seal off the system when not in use. Print the floor plate and flange, and replace the other floor plate. Dremel the mag and add the magazine insert, epoxy putty, and craft foam as necessary. Balls should flow to the insert from the opening freely when dropped in. Other notes: > ~ Due to solvent welding, genuine Rival mags will never be usable. Sorry :(

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