Battery Blocker Blocky Block

thingiverse

Having no better description for the piece, I\'ll give a breakdown: I work in a camera store (yeah camera store!) in Upstate New York. Every other day I see things that need fixing, and I\'m a half-decent repair man, but only half. In this customer\'s case, he has a Fuji camera model you can\'t really get replacement parts for, and his battery door is broken, as well as the body where the door interfaces. I don\'t have high hopes that the Makerbot can build a new body core or battery door, but I figured I could at least build a sort of blockade to help keep the door closed, and keep this nice Scottish man out of the duct tape department, as he has been doing. The catch here is that I have to assume that the plastic is only so strong across a long spread like this, so I wondered if it could be printed with a core, something metal and easily available. Being that I\'m weird, I also picked something weird: A nickel. That having been said, the nickel is non-removeable: I insert it in the middle of the print process. This is tricky, at best, and makes a mess until I can figure out a better way to print on top of a nickel. There is a second file (v2) that doesn't include a nickel. While I liked this printed version as well, I kinda like the nickel version better, cuz it's bizarre. Instructions Why you would want to print one of these, I do not know. The biggest key is looking out for plastic gobs or scabs, as the extrusion will refuse to adhere to the nickel once it\'s placed in the middle. Process goes like this: -Make sure you have no curling on the bottom of the print, and sure, you could use RAFT, but having a perfectly flat surface will help it interface with the camera a little better (the model being a Fuji A600 in this case). -After a few layers you\'ll see a hollow center start to build, which is good, this is where your nickel fits. Once it\'s about 4 or 5 layers tall, you gotta drop the nickel in the midst of the print. If the layers are too short, then the print head will scrape and cause pandemonium. If too tall, then it will start to overlap the layers above where the nickel should live, and then you\'re hosed and you have a nickel-less print. (Ideally you should be able to pause the robot and put it in without scrambling, but where\'s the fun in that?) -From here, the \'bot will try to drop additional layers above the nickel. It will still retain the print circle, allowing either Mr. Jefferson or MONTICELLO to peer through for pure quirk. But you gotta keep an eye on the gobs that start to curl up near the edges, and make sure you either keep them flat, stamping down the edges with a flat-head screwdriver, or scribbling them off if they\'re lose. I have no suggestions how else to deal with this other than not using a nickel in your print. -After the uppermost layers are covering your nickel up, it should print just peachy for the remainder. Watch it tho -- that nickel is hot when it comes off the \'bot. -Thread a 1/4-20 3/4\" length bolt into the bottom and give it a few spins. There\'s an arrow printed on the bottom to encourage uniform spinning and keep the bolt in place. Not all cameras uniform -- modify to your needs! And that\'s the whole shebang. Take a look, suggest away, and uhh, heaven help you!