Battleship with Star Wars Ships (without posts attached)

thingiverse

First, I created two Star Wars Battleship sets. This one has the posts separate, and you will need to print, position, and glue them to the ships. The other (here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5585334) has the posts already attached (if you would rather that), but it that means the bottom of the ships won't look as nice (that you're not looking at while playing). I designed these so the posts can be added so that they work with a store bought traditional battleship game. I provided models of just the posts at varying lengths, and the same posts with stabilisers around them to help their printing be more successful. Of course if you use the stabiliser versions, once printed, simply remove the post from the stabiliser before gluing onto the ships. Reference the image "Ship Post Locations.png" to see where the posts should be placed. Alternatively you could download the other set with posts to see the post positions. You may want to put the posts in the actual battleship post holes, then put a dab of superglue on the top of the post and place the ship on that (to ensure your post placement is accurate). If you don't want the hassle of this, you can just print the set with posts already attached to the ships. I did not create any of these ships myself, but rather grabbed each of them from various Thingiverse posts. However I put in many, many hours preparing these models for battleship, including sizing, post and peg positioning, peg hole drilling, and I did have to do a fair amount of modelling work (mostly in Meshmixer) to even be able to drill the battleship peg holes without errors, and also to make them printable (IE make them solid rather than having hollow insides). You'll notice with many of these, the peg holes are not exactly in the center of the battleship squares. This is because most of the ships were thin enough the peg holes go all the way through them, and the posts needed to be centered on the squares. Regardless, it should be pretty easy to tell which holes belong to which coordinates. Because of the thinness of some of the fins and wings, it's important that in your slicer you set Horizontal Expansion to 0.2 (or more since the posts are separate, but you probably don't want to over-do it). With the ATAT Walker, you'll notice I have an ATAT Walker and ATAT Walker Short. The short one has thicker legs and will likely print much easier. With the original ATAT Walker, I did get it to print, but I had to glue the legs together in several places. Also with this piece, you'll print the ATAT Post Plate, then superglue this to that. When you do this, be careful to line up the feet so they don't block any holes. I included a "Print Instructions for Ships With No Posts.txt" with the cura settings I used to print the ships, and special instructions for how to better provide the right kind of print support for successful prints (since most of them are standing on end and have very little print bed surface area).