BD-1R Droid (70% Remix + MMU & 13DOF)

thingiverse

BD-1R Droid (70% + MMU + 13DOF) Update Jan 27, 2020: Using this motor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N56RTQQ/, I was able to build a much stronger droid, though this motor is loud enough to hear. The motor axle is in a different spot so I had to remake the drive mechanism. It actually works great and I have more space for the batteries, but I can't say enough how hard it was to get the motor with drive gear and neck in place. Uploaded the STL for the motor plus the STEP that has both motor designs with mods so they may be easier for you than me, and a ratchet mechanism which may or may not work (didn't try it). Cheers! Update Jan 21, 2020: tried posing BD with head not parallel to the ground and motor immediately broke. Sounds like a (reducer) gear broke. I can't recommend the motor listed below, but have the only other one available on order. I anticipate new motor and drive assembly... I greatly enjoy making star wars related projects, and I always imagine what things would have been like if the world really existed. What does this mean? It means that strict adherence to models found in-game or in-movie isn’t a top priority for me. To that end, extreme modifications have been made to the amazing work of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3683124. Any changes that were necessary to support printing an assembly have been made without regard for the appearance of the droid (if you look at the droid in the video, his legs and neck twist in ways that metal can’t, so it could be argued that there’s no correct answer anyway). For example, the head needed to be taller to fit the motor in there, and I also “dressed it up” exaggerating the different look. Beyond that, I modified the feet for strength, increased the torso-leg separation to fit the new joints and several other things that aren’t immediately visible. I’m calling this guy BD-1R, as it is Randall’s Remix. My main interest was in making a droid that could ride on the shoulder like the one in the video game, and [obviously] spiraled crazily out of control from there. The main thing I did was to make this Prusa MMU2S compatible. This isn’t really necessary if you have paints, but it is nice in that the color can’t wear off (also, the MMU doesn’t get used as much as I thought…). I also added 13 degrees of freedom (inc. ears), with the 2-axis hips being really crucial to somewhat mimic the motion from the game. I also added a real glass right eye, [CONFIRM a projector left eye], a rear light grid, low voltage motor for head panning, batteries, aluminum antennas, and access ports for maintenance. First: What you need to build this droid: • A bicycle tapered headset bearing: I used an old piece one, and Amazon says I ordered a 1 1/8” and 1 1/2” as replacements. The bearing model is included in Parts13 • A .375” rod of sufficient length to make antenna (can be printed but might lack strength lol) • 14500 batteries (or use other lithium and adjust battery boxes) • Battery Boxes Listing deleted from amazon, but I used 14500 batteries which are AA sized… • Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D27P9GV/ • Potentiometers (optional?) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVF92J4/ • 50mm cabochon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006R88MIG/ • Motor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QW9PX54/ • Lighting, I used this flashlight for both the front and rear lighting (cut it apart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078C7WC7C/ • Optional: This projection system: https://www.amazon.com/dp/0794434940/ • Optional Sound Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M35VHY5/ • Colored Plastic sheet (e.g. Lee Filter swatches) • Clear Gorilla Glue (can’t speak for any other product where I use this) • Velcro for securing batteries • Whatever other glue you want (I use hot glue for some parts and acetone for others in this ABS print) • 6mm nuts and bolts I bought o https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PV9536J/ o https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRTFZSZ/ o https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081518HYT/ o https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFJKPP9/ o https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFWCHG4/ o https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQLQCBH/ o https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFJF86Z/ • 6mm bolts actually needed o *** I just don’t have time right now to dissemble, but the measurement tool in your program of choice should help with the STEP file • Long allen wrench to tighten face • Filament o 2kg Primary color o Good amount of Secondary color o Good amount of Black o Medium amount of Accent color o Small amount of Red Basic Instructions: 1) Look at complete STL or STEP file to get a feel for what the goal is (probably already know lol) 2) Refer to STL files which have been prepped to be printable. Note that some pieces need support material and all need excellent bed adhesion so they are flat on the bottom. I tried to annotate this in the file descriptions below. 3) Each file is coded for what types of filament are needed. The code “PSABR” stands for “Primary, Secondary, Accent, Black, and Red.” This is done to optimize printing, so that unneeded filaments can be stored in dry box etc. 4) Print all the parts. I anticipated wanting parts to be well bonded when glued, and chose ABS for this print. I also anticipated getting a very durable result, and accepted that I needed a raft to ensure proper bonding. In most cases, I actually just left the raft on and trimmed to the chamfer (or whatever). I learned everything I ever want to know about ABS printing and am super, SUPER, happy to be done. I probably have about 1.5kg of wasted material, accounting for ~200 printer hours. SMH! 5) Assume all holes are going to be too small. You need a 6mm or 1/4” bit and the appropriate one to clear the holes for the antenna. 6) Assembly is fairly straightforward except the skull. I used wire that was too heavy, because it was laying on my bench when I started. Also, I did not test fit the cog wheel before I put all the stuff in the head and it was a pain. I may have even damaged the motor jamming it on, so getting a screw for the internal threaded motor axle and using that to press the cog may be useful. From there, work everything into the head however you like! 7) The idea is that the skull neck bolt will be set with a drop of Super glue or whatever on both ends, so that the orientation of the head is not dependent on bolt tightening. [my] Hot glue does not bond to metal strongly enough to prevent the motor from loosening the head. Printing Notes: • On most files, I used selectively enforced supports where severe overhangs existed, but tried to minimize the need • It took three tries to print the skull without an error. I had to purchase a tent to cover which I also lined. The final skull printed at 265C/105C with about 38C ambient. Filenames are in the following format: • bd1-parts[PART#] - [DESCRIPTION] - [VERSION] - [MMU?] - [FILAMENT NEEDED] - [FILAMENT COLOR] Again, code for "Filaments needed" and "Filament Color," “PSABR,” stands for “Primary, Secondary, Accent, Black, and Red.” Complete Files: BD-1R Complete v3 has the parts v1 skull BD-1R Complete v4 has the parts v2 skull Parts File Log: • Parts1 v1 – Feet, put in supports where needed and also put in 5mm sphere magnets if you want him to pick up stuff. o bd1-parts1-feet-v1-mmu-psa-a.stl o bd1-parts1-feet-v1-mmu-psa-p.stl o bd1-parts1-feet-v1-mmu-psa-s.stl • Parts2 v1 – Ears and Outer Calf, No supports recommended but ears push the limit. Hole is designed for 3/8” rod o bd1-parts2-EarsOuterCalf-v1-mmu-psa-a.stl o bd1-parts2-EarsOuterCalf-v1-mmu-psa-p.stl o bd1-parts2-EarsOuterCalf-v1-mmu-psa-s.stl • Parts3 v1 – Outer Quad, also Easy print • bd1-parts3-OuterQuad-v1-mmu-psa-a.stl • bd1-parts3-OuterQuad-v1-mmu-psa-p.stl • bd1-parts3-OuterQuad-v1-mmu-psa-s.stl • Parts4 v1 – Lots of stuff, Use this print to make sure your 5 color setup is working o bd1-parts4-InnerCalfOuterHipTorseoFrontTorsoBack-v1-mmu-psabr-a.stl o bd1-parts4-InnerCalfOuterHipTorseoFrontTorsoBack-v1-mmu-psabr-b.stl o bd1-parts4-InnerCalfOuterHipTorseoFrontTorsoBack-v1-mmu-psabr-p.stl o bd1-parts4-InnerCalfOuterHipTorseoFrontTorsoBack-v1-mmu-psabr-r.stl o bd1-parts4-InnerCalfOuterHipTorseoFrontTorsoBack-v1-mmu-psabr-s.stl • Parts5 v1 – DELETED, Nuts and Junk, All these parts work if you got the file but I made better ones later • Parts6 v1 – Parts that are all the primary color of the droid o bd1-parts6-InnerQuadMidCalfInnerHipBolts-v1-p.stl • Parts7 v1 – More parts that are all the primary color of the droid – most of these nuts are excess. Honestly no idea why. The ones you need are the ones for inside the body o bd1-parts7-MidCalfInnerHipBoltsNeck-v1-p.stl • Parts8 v1 – DELETED, It was just a part that I had delaminate and reprinted. • Parts9 v1 – Rear half of torso, Supports where the nuts go / huge overhang is, is necessary o bd1-parts9-TorsoRear-v1-mmu-psa-a.stl o bd1-parts9-TorsoRear-v1-mmu-psa-p.stl o bd1-parts9-TorsoRear-v1-mmu-psa-s.stl • Parts10 v1 – Light Grid FOR v1 HEAD and switch parts plus more nuts don’t need. o bd1-parts10-LightGridNutsSwitchParts-v1-b.stl • Parts10 v2 – Light Grid FOR v2 HEAD and switch parts. No nuts. o bd1-parts10-LightGridSwitchParts-v2-b.stl • Parts11 v1 – Torso Front. I did not need supports for this, even if middle sagged, panel would cover it. o bd1-parts11-TorsoFront-v1-mmu-pa-a.stl o bd1-parts11-TorsoFront-v1-mmu-pa-p.stl • Parts12 v1 – Skull, This file works fine, I’ll put a picture of the one that had the printing error o bd1-parts12-skull-v1-mmu-psabr-a.stl o bd1-parts12-skull-v1-mmu-psabr-b.stl o bd1-parts12-skull-v1-mmu-psabr-p.stl o bd1-parts12-skull-v1-mmu-psabr-r.stl o bd1-parts12-skull-v1-mmu-psabr-s.stl • Parts12 v2 – Skull, This skull is better in that it has a larger light grid, which in this design is removable to put stuff in it (think battery removal). Also tweaked the rear interior for more space. o bd1-parts12-skull-v2-mmu-psabr-a.stl o bd1-parts12-skull-v2-mmu-psabr-b.stl o bd1-parts12-skull-v2-mmu-psabr-p.stl o bd1-parts12-skull-v2-mmu-psabr-r.stl o bd1-parts12-skull-v2-mmu-psabr-s.stl • Parts13 v1 – DELETED • Parts13 v2 – Many updates in this file but don’t just print it! There are the nuts you need, but also alternatives. Parts for the motorized head, but only if you’re doing that. Tools to help pose him, if you want. A carriage for the projector assembly, if you are using that. Also the shape I used as a model for a 6mm bolt, the headset bearing model, and the upper neck bracket split in half. To make the model, the parts that are on the print bed are what you need. o bd1-parts13-neck_and_bolts-v2-p.stl • Parts14 v1 – Parts 14 is not required for the model and may be posted later as a separate thing. • Parts15 v1 – Parts of visor and face. Note that if not using projector, it may make sense to combine the parts of the faceplate or start from the STEP file. o bd1-parts15-visorface-v1-mmu-pab-a.stl o bd1-parts15-visorface-v1-mmu-pab-b.stl o bd1-parts15-visorface-v1-mmu-pab-p.stl • Parts16 v1 – another part of the face using different colors. Also some two-tone nuts here if you want them o bd1-parts16-facenuts-v1-mmu-sb-b.stl o bd1-parts16-facenuts-v1-mmu-sb-s.stl • Parts17 v1 – Projector eye part. My bet is that the projector eye will be what really gets noticed, but that’s not really related to the files ;) o bd1-parts17-projectoreye-v1-mmu-sab-a.stl o bd1-parts17-projectoreye-v1-mmu-sab-b.stl o bd1-parts17-projectoreye-v1-mmu-sab-s.stl • Parts18 v1 – Cogs, Depending on the height of the motor and all the crap in the skull, you may need a shorter cog. Recommend printing the shortest one and trimming the post with a snip. Color irrelevant o bd1-parts18-cogs-v1.stl