Bench Power Supply Case for CQRobot ATX Breakout Board

thingiverse

A bench power supply case for the inexpensive and extremely old (and most importantly unopened) ATX power supply I had for my Pentium-era PC. * [CQRobot 20-Pin ATX Breakout Board](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KPF8QW4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) * [Eachbid DC 0-100V 10A Ammeter](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GS2F69Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) * [MCIGICM 4mm Banana Plugs Sockets](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGT31YR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) * [Everbilt #6-32 x 3/8in Round Head Combo](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-32-x-3-8-in-Combo-Round-Head-Zinc-Plated-Machine-Screw-8-Pack-803011/204274602) * [Everbilt 3/8in Clear Bumpers](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-Self-Adhesive-Clear-Surface-Bumpers-16-per-Pack-49964/203661136) The main part of the case is to be printed on its side (the one with the fan cutout). It's large flat print, so be sure to use whatever countermeasures for curling you would normally. Same with the door, but it is a much quicker print. The design is meant to use a minimal number of parts. The #6-32 screws are used both to attach the ATX power supply to the case, as well as to attach the door to the main case body. To do this, tap two nuts into the hex tabs and make sure they are straight. I also heated them up with a soldering iron at 215c and gently pushed them in to ensure they do not pull out. The ammeter is configured as described by this [article by the DroneBot Workshop](https://dronebotworkshop.com/atx-bench-supply/). Everything else should be self-explanatory with the exception of the additional banana plug holes to the left of the ammeter. Since the CQRobot breakout has 2A auto resetting fuses on each terminal, I decided to use the remaining 5v and 12v peripheral cables for higher-current supply terminals. Unlike the DroneBot Workshop design, I decided not to fuse them.