Bicycle bash guard - non standard

thingiverse

This is my design for my mountain bike's bash guard. It isn't standard: two of the holes have a distance of just 96mm between their centers while the other two have 106mm to the first two (and also, 96mm in between). Please measure the distance between the holes in your bicycle before you download. Instructions This was printed in nylon on a marble slab coated with a thick layer of 1:5 diluted PVA glue. The important thing when printing with nylon is always print with a large brim. Several other important points: Don't try to print nylon with a PEEK hotend - PEEK melts at about 250 degrees. You need an all-metal hotend to print nylon. When printing nylon - fan off. Best disconnect the fan, just to be sure it is off. The PVA layer must be thick and must be completely dry. This means you need to apply it and leave it to dry overnight. First layer head must be very low, the printed nylon should be deposited right into the PVA. This means that the head must be not more than 0.2mm above the material and that the printer must be levelled precisely. Any mistake here will allow the nylon to warp. Hot end very hot, almost in pyrolysis in the first layer. This means about 320 degrees Celsius for nylon. Somehow it seems that the nylon and the PVA form a bond with the silicate substrate at that temperature. It is very hard to separate them afterwards - you will need a scraper. Following layers may be printed in the usual nylon printing temperature, just like you would print on garolite. Referring to 5 - DO NOT try to print on glass. You will not be able to remove the part, it will bond to the glass. Even with less than perfect silicates (such as marble) - you will still need to work very gently with a scraper to remove it. Bed temperature should be slightly below glass transition temperature of nylon (40 degrees Celsius), at all stages. I've got to the conclusion 35 degrees Celsius works best for me.