bicycle wheel truing gauge clamp

thingiverse

This is to measure the warp in a bicycle wheel (rim) so you can tighten up the spokes and make it true again (don't forget to pay attention to roundness as well - make small adjustments working around the wheel until it looks good - the nipple is like a nut and the end of the spoke is threaded into the nipple so looking from the outside of the rim it's lefty loosy righty tighty - you want to straighten mostly by tightening as spokes tend to stretch over time - but don't over tighten - if you have any missing/broken spokes you'll have to replace them in order get it very true) the m10 bolt is the gauge (you can counter-tighten an m10 nut to fix this gauge pin in place) the m5 bolt tightens the clamp both m5 and m10 threads should match standard bolts and nuts (0.8mm pitch for m5 and 1.5mm pitch for m10) It's the second iteration of the clamp. I've moved the gauge threads closer to the open side of the clamp, trimmed up the clamp fingers, and shaved some off the inside of the sliding carriage so that it doesn't end up fused to the body. It breaks free quite easily now. I'm using a steel m5 bolt for the clamp bolt rather than messing around trying to print the fine threads so that they work well. next, maybe I will make a knob to go on the head of the m5 bolt to make it easier to turn