Blue Yeti Mounting Kit - Brackets and 5/8 inch Screw

thingiverse

I needed a way to attach my Blue Yeti microphone to the shock mount that I printed, so I made these parts as a sort of kit. The kit consists of a screw for the bottom mounting hole, and brackets for the two side screw holes (where the desk stand normally attaches). It's widely known that the Blue Yeti uses a 5/8 inch "microphone stand thread" screw on the bottom for attaching to a shock mount, but beyond that I could find little information and had to resort to trial and error. As near as I can tell, that screw needs to be UNEF (extra fine threaded, or 24 Threads Per Inch). Unfortunately, the only 5/8" screws that my hardware store carried were UNC (coarse) threaded (11 TPI), and were also more than twice the length that I needed. This would have resulted in a loose microphone and lot of unnecessary weight. Too cheap and too impatient to order one, I decided to try a printed screw instead. Print Settings Printer: Maker Select v2 (Wanhao di3) Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.1 - 0.2 (smaller for better quality threads) Infill: = 50% Notes: Support is normally needed only on the brackets (mostly for the bridge at the top). Print two copies of that part (one for each side of the microphone). I printed them solid (100% infill). Test fit your 5/8 screw before adding the Blue Yeti to the shock mount. If the screw comes out too tight or too loose, try scaling it a little in the X and Y axes, without changing the Z axis scale. If you change the Z scale, you'll mess up the spacing between threads. Because the screw is printed with its axis parallel to the printer's Z axis, delamination of the layers is possible if the print is weak for some reason. I included a rectangular slot through the axis of the screw for this reason. If the screw breaks off inside the Blue Yeti, a flat screwdriver or similar object can hopefully be inserted and used to turn the remainder to remove it. If you can't get strong enough layers to support the microphone's weight when printing with the screw axis like this, you might try rotating the screw model by 90 degrees in your slicer to make it parallel to X or Y, and then printing with support. You will probably need to do some post-processing to clean up the threads in this case. I haven't needed to try this myself. Post-Printing Installation Note: the side brackets are designed for 20mm standoffs between the upper and lower frames of the shock mount, like my printed standoffs. There's a little leeway, but if your standoffs are too different, the slot likely won't line up properly with the hole in the microphone. Due to the clearance with the shock mount screws, if you intend on using the knobs that come with the Blue Yeti's base to attach the brackets to the microphone's body, then you will want to put these on before the two M5 screws that secure the bracket to the shock mount (because there isn't much clearance between the M5 screw and the knob). If you aren't using the knobs for this purpose, then you are free to secure the bracket to the shock mount before securing them to the microphone (or indeed, adding the mcrophone at all). This would make stringing the elastic easier I recommend threading the 5/8" screw slowly to minimize the chance for delamination. By default it is a tight fight, but it should work (at least, mine did). Once the 5/8 screw is threaded all the way, make sure it is tight enough that the microphone doesn't rotate. See Also Don't forget to check out my other Blue Yeti related parts: Printed Standoffs - used for spacing the shock mount inner rings Microphone Stand Adapter - To attach the shock mount to a mic stand.