Bluetooth Game Pad

thingiverse

Bluetooth Game Pad (1.2) --- UPDATED VERSION! BE SURE TO GET THE NEW FILES. There is now a little more space for the buttons, so they do work properly and do not block even on faster print speeds. A few other improvements have also been made. --- UPDATE 1.2: The BottomShell has been modified, 1 mm more of space for cables and stuff. The shoulder button PCBs will now fit in their places better and easier, too. I was inspired by Adafruit's DIY Bluetooth Gamepad, but did all the work for the models myself. Additionally to the features Adafruit's game pad of roughly the same size, this one features L/R shoulder buttons and curved top and bottom edges, so it will lay in your hands really smooth. What's required Adafruit Bluefruit EZ-Key Bluetooth HID module LiPo Charger (I used this one, but you can use any you can get in your area that has appropriate voltage and amperage for charging you battery, you may have to customize the BottomShell.stl in that case, though) LiPo battery (again, I used this one, but you can use any that fits the case, potentially redesigning part of its inner structure will be needed) 10 tactile switches (6x6x5 mm) 1 on/off switch wire prototyping board/etched PCB of course access to a 3D Printer and filament unless you want to order the parts at some sort of service soldering iron Build You will need a prototyping board to mount the buttons to, positions for buttons and holes can be taken from the top shell (I may add a layout later, though). All the electronic parts are fixed to the lower part of the case. Be sure to mount the EZ-Key upside down, so the reset key is reachable through the reset hole in the bottom of the case using a needle. The charger goes to the central hole in the L/R buttons' side of the case, mount the on/off switch next to it The battery snaps right into place if you have the same one as I do. After that solder wires to EZ-Key pins 0-9 and one of the Gnds. Solder the wires to the buttons contacts and fit the button boards in their places. Maybe you have to file the buttons or holes a little so they can move freely. Last thing to do is fit the buttons into their holes in the upper part of the case and put it all together. If you're lucky you may not even need to glue the case halves together. When you're finished, have fun playing! Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: P3Steel Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: 0.1-0.3 mm Infill: 15-25% Notes: I had a problem with low printing speeds (20 mm/s), but that could be just my printer, where it would print shifted by about 2 mm from a layer somewhere amid the print and up to the last layer.Printing was fine at 40 mm/s, though. However, Slic3r seems to have an issue slicing BottomShell.stl, I used Cura for that part, but printed the rest using Slic3r and Pronterface again.I used a raft for BottomShell and did get worse results than for the TopShell, where I used none. I however recommend using a skirt at least. Supports don't seem to be needed. Post-Printing Maybe you'll want to smoothen the edges and get rid of the printing pattern on planes using some sandpaper, however that's not required.Make sure to clean your print of any excess material especially around the buttons' places, so they can move freely. How I Designed This 123D Design