Canon EF Adapter For Amscope M600A Microscope

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IMPORTANT NOTE - Updated 11/16/16 7:59PM EST to fix some tolerance issues on the camera-side threading. Should fit much better now. Also, added a slot at the tube so that if your camera is rotating on its own due to balance issues, you can slip a pipe or hose clamp over the tube to lock it in place. Presto.... This is a Canon EF to Amscope M600A microscope adapter. This is meant to attach the camera WITHOUT LENS to the microscope WITHOUT EYEPIECE for direct projection to the camera sensor. DO NOT attempt to force this thing onto the microscope with an eyepiece in it, or you're apt to have one very jammed eyepiece stuck in a big piece of printed plastic. This was specifically made to slide snugly over the microscope's 26mm diameter eyepiece tube. As such, it will probably work with a lot of Amscope's microscopes, and perhaps other makes as long as they have the right diameter eyepiece tube. This could easily be modified to slip over other microscope's eyepiece tubes as long as they are straight without any flanges or whatever, so if you'd like to see me do something for a specific scope, send me a nudge and some measurements and I'll see what I can do. One little side note: Although direct projection microphotography can be absolutely some of the best you've ever seen, it can also produce some anomalous results. For one, throw your ideas of magnification out the window. Direct projection produces images of a far higher magnification than the eyepiece and objective lens combo you are used to will produce, so expect things to be a bit more zoomy... or a lot more zoomy, frankly. Second thing, I've seen my own setup produce a coma effect in the lighting, especially at lower powers. I haven't found ways to eliminate that, just to reduce it. Third thing, you may see specks in your photos, due to the highly collimated light path and any dust on your camera sensor. There's never been a better time to learn how to clean your camera sensor, and that's the only option other than Photoshopping the specks out later. It's life. Good luck, have fun, and of course feel free to post comments or questions. NR417 Print Settings Printer Brand: Robo 3D Printer: R1 ABS + PLA Model Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 30% Notes: Because this thing needs to support the weight of a canon DSLR camera at a 45 degree angle, it needs to be strong. It's alright to print it nonsolid, but do give some thought to strength. Most of the stress is going to be right at the connection point to the camera, and along the tube that slides over the microscope's eyepiece tube. Print in a tough plastic, like PETG or PC, and it should do really well. Just remember, it IS plastic, not steel. No pounding on the camera while it's attached. Depending on your setup, you may have some cleaning/buffing/sanding ahead of you before it fits your camera and microscope perfectly. I made this to be as exacting as possible for my poor little Robo 3D, but the tolerances here are within 0.25mm or less so any bit of chaff from the support material or extrusion blobs can cause real issues with fit. Be patient and work with it, and she'll go as long as you're using a proper Canon EF/EFS camera and a micoscope with the right eyepiece tube. One very important thing: If you print this in anything other than opaque black plastic, you may get light leakage through the body of the adapter and it can easily wash out your images. An easy trick to overcome this after you already did the print in a problematic plastic is to simply spray pain the inside of the area where the camera attaches and the entire outside. The inside of the tube doesn't matter much because the microscope eyepiece tube will obstruct any light leakage. A very good spray paint for "blacking" of optical tubes is Rustoleum Camouflage 2x Ultra Cover. It has a natural roughness and strongly matte quality that absorbs light very well. Also, if anyone experiences issues with it being inherently too tight or too loose, please do let me know, and try to provide some rough data to guide me to how off the tolerances are, and where in the design. I'm basing this off some previous design attempts that went off perfectly in real world testing, but this was a total overhaul (my meshes SUCKED) and the first print is still in progress. I'll know more in ETA 3 hours 15 mins lol. How I Designed This As before, I used Elven magic. I have to say though, they got frickin rowdy this time around, and I had to scream obscenities for HOURS before it came out worth a damn. I guess I did ok in the end. :-)