Case AC - DC Mean Well Power Supply RS-25-5 or RS-15-5

Case AC - DC Mean Well Power Supply RS-25-5 or RS-15-5

thingiverse

This is a basic case for a Mean Well RS-15-5 or RS-25-5 AC-DC power supply. It uses a universal rocker switch AC plug module and a 2-way banana binding power terminal (all available on Amazon, no affiliation). - Mean Well RS-25-5 AC-DC power supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DECXUD0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - or Mean Well RS-15-5 AC-DC power supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T6UJBU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - AC rocker switch - power module: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQV2NPN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - 2-way banana plug, binding post terminal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GBOGNCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A few warnings/cautions: - This requires knowledge of proper wiring that is not included here but readily available. - When bolting the power supply to the base, be careful not to screw the bolts too far into the power supply and damage the electrical board. The metal power supply case only has a few threads. - Test and adjust power output before connecting - The power supply is passive air cooled (no fan) so monitor heat and do not leave it on while unattended. - Feet are required for proper air circulation - Follow all manufacture instructions, warnings, and cautions Design: The base has holes for the RS-25-5 PSU that are ~54.9mm apart and for the RS-15-5 that are ~39.3mm apart. I don't know how standard these dimensions are from unit to unit so if yours differ more than +/- 1mm, you might have to alter or remix. Printing: - Material: Designed and printed in PETG since I don't know how hot the power supply will get with normal use. Since PETG is somewhat flexible, support brackets were built-in for durability. These brackets should also make it strong enough for PLA. - Infill: Anything from 20-90% will work depending how much it will be used. I used 32%. The weakest area is around the AC power socket, so if you expect to plug and unplug a lot you can increase up to 90%. - The base requires supports around the power socket. The frame is narrow so be careful cutting out the supports. A brim will help prevent warping. - From my experience, adding supports to the top are messy and unnecessary. Don't recommend using supports or a brim with the top. Rotate top to print upside down. - The feet require a brim or raft. If you don't like the feet, small rubber feet can be found. Assembly: The following small parts are needed: 2-3Mx20mm (exactly) button-head bolts, 2-3Mx12mm tapered head screws, 4-3Mx12mm button-head screws, about 8 inches of 14 ga electrical wire (4in each of black and red) and crimp terminals (all open or optional ring on one end). The 25W power supply is tight so measure enough wire for slack to connect the DC terminals. Be careful to align all screws and don't over tighten and crack the case. *Again, make sure that regardless of wire colors, the correct terminals are connected according to manufacturer instructions and markings. Test and adjust power output before use. And don't leave the power on while unattended. This object was made in Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7DkS58WGqvv

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