24v 235x235mm Heated Bed Guide for the Mega Zero v1.0 (SKR Mini MZ)

prusaprinters

<p>This is my <strong>24v Heated Bed Upgrade Guide</strong> for the <strong>Mega Zero v1.0</strong>!</p><p>This is for the SKR Mini MZ Board - the stock board is 24v compatible but lacks the power control MOSFETs for a heated bed.</p><p><br>Major benefits of going 24v are:</p><ul><li>Faster bed and HE heat up times</li><li>You can use Ender 3 Beds with 170x170mm mount spacing</li><li>No bed adapter plates are required</li><li>You get a bigger usable print area</li><li>You can still use bed leveling wheels</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3><strong>Prerequisites :</strong></h3><p><strong>1/</strong> A <strong>24v Power Supply</strong> - the Stock PSU is only 12v and will not work with this upgrade. The Mean Well LRS-350-24 is my recommended choice. (<i>Make sure your fans and heater cart are 24v rated</i>)<br><a href="https://www.digikey.com.au/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/LRS-350-24/7705034">https://www.digikey.com.au/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/LRS-350-24/7705034</a></p><p><strong>2/ </strong>4x M4 Bolts and 4x M4 Bed Thumbwheels (you will need to drill out the Y-carriage mount holes from 3mm to 4mm)</p><p><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001391148294.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dhKuTSs">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001391148294.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dhKuTSs</a></p><p><strong>3/</strong> An Ender 3 <strong>Heated bed </strong>(235x235mm)</p><p><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001875041263.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2b23ba1fxh1QsY&amp;algo_pvid=eb1a50b6-afcc-44ca-bd6f-9c9815d56dc7&amp;algo_exp_id=eb1a50b6-afcc-44ca-bd6f-9c9815d56dc7-0&amp;pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000017985434999%22%7D">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001875041263.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2b23ba1fxh1QsY&amp;algo_pvid=eb1a50b6-afcc-44ca-bd6f-9c9815d56dc7&amp;algo_exp_id=eb1a50b6-afcc-44ca-bd6f-9c9815d56dc7-0&amp;pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000017985434999%22%7D</a>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>5/</strong> A <strong>Magnetic Spring-steel PEI Build Plate</strong> kit (235x235mm)</p><p><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000069783592.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dhKuTSs">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000069783592.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dhKuTSs</a>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>7/ Cable Strain Relief</strong> for the Print bed Cabling:<br><a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/80998-anycubic-mega-zero-heated-bed-cable-strain-relief-">https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/80998-anycubic-mega-zero-heated-bed-cable-strain-relief-</a>&nbsp;</p><p>or</p><p><a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/84884-heated-bed-cable-strain-relief-bracket">https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/84884-heated-bed-cable-strain-relief-bracket</a>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>8/ Cable Ties / Zip ties</strong><br>Either 2.6mm wide or 3.5mm wide</p><p><strong>9/ Cable Management Clip</strong>s (highly recommended):<br><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4144671">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4144671</a></p><h3><strong>Bed Installation:</strong></h3><p><strong>1/</strong> Install the new Power Supply using your preferred method:<br><br>Here are 2 good options:</p><p><a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/81000-anycubic-mega-zero-rear-mount-for-mean-well-lrs-35">https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/81000-anycubic-mega-zero-rear-mount-for-mean-well-lrs-35</a>&nbsp;<br>or<br><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4792529https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/80985-anycubic-mega-zero-v10-horizontal-mount-for-mean-w">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4792529https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/80985-anycubic-mega-zero-v10-horizontal-mount-for-mean-w</a>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>2/</strong> Remove old Bed by removing the levelling wheels</p><p><strong>3/</strong> Install Cable Management bracket onto rear Bed adapter bracket with Superglue. You can do this later, but it's easier without the bed in the way.</p><p><strong>4/</strong> Drill out the Y-carriage Bed mount holes from 3.5mm to 4.5mm.&nbsp;</p><p><strong>5/ </strong>Install Bed into Printer - I recommend adding M4 nuts to the underside of the bed to ensure stability. I added a dash of super glue to ensure they don't vibrate loose.&nbsp;</p><p>I recommend using 25mm tall springs as 20mm springs may cause clearance issues with the Y-axis end-stop. Other options (eg silicone, printed etc) are not recommended as they can cause bed stability issues at high temps.</p><p><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33001295923.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4eb94c4drx9aHb">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33001295923.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4eb94c4drx9aHb</a>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>6/ </strong>Install magnetic surface or Glass bed onto the Aluminium plate.</p><p><strong>7/</strong> Run the heated bed cable down and under the V-rails or use a cable snake to keep it from snagging during printing. Use a zip-tie to fix the cable bundle to the Cable Strain Relief Bracket.</p><p>I used a Cable Management Clip and Zip-tie to fix the cables to the chassis rail. Make sure there is enough cable for the bed to move through its full range of motion.<br>&nbsp;</p><h3><strong>Electrical Installation:</strong></h3><p><strong>1/</strong> Install Bed wiring as per the SKR Mini MZ documentation.</p><p><strong>2/</strong> Install KAD Mega Zero FW or Klipper FW<br><a href="https://github.com/kad/Marlin/wiki#installing-firmware">https://github.com/kad/Marlin/wiki#installing-firmware</a></p><p><strong>3/</strong> PID Autotune the Bed temps:<br>(use Octoprint Terminal)<br>M303 E-1 S60 U1</p><p><strong>4/</strong> Re-level the Bed via whichever process you use.</p><p><strong>5/</strong> Enjoy your 3D Printer!<br>&nbsp;</p>