Cetus 3D MK2 Filament Feeder Guide

thingiverse

Cetus 3D MK2 Filament Feeder Guide Unfortunately, MK2's Extruder abandoned the design of Afinia H480. The partner of the gear that sends the filament may be Teflon, perhaps. Because it is not metal, push back is too weak. Therefore, the filament feed becomes incorrect, and it can not be used as a printer. And, unfortunately, ABS printing is necessary. Please print this first with another printer. A bearing is required. It has an inner diameter of 3 mm and an outer diameter of 7 mm and a thickness of 3 mm. As a note at the time of installation, add it. When looking at the filament insertion hole from above, it is necessary to align the gear position and the heater hole of the extruder. Some of the products are misaligned at the time of shipment of the manufacturer. If the adjustment is wrong, you may repeat the head replacement several times, but the printer can not be used because of the poor feeding of the filament. for Afinia H480 - Print options: Quality [ Fine ] v1.00: In order to fix the bearing, it is necessary to melt it and stop it with a soldering iron or the like. v1.03: A version that eliminates burning by soldering iron. There is no need to fix with adhesive. v2.21: I tried to fix the bearing with the printed shaft. When I used about 500g of filament, the shaft was bent and it was necessary to exchange. v2.31: It is a version using 10 mm length screw with M3. I improved durability. If you tighten the screw perfectly, the feeding of the filament will be intermittent. It is good to loosen screws after tightening, one turn. Adjustment is only for this one. It also serves to adjust the contact surface of the bearing and the screw. v2.32: I am using M3's 10 mm length screw. There is no need to make delicate adjustments. At the moment, I think that is the best. v2.33: Test for TPU filament v2.34: Add and use a short 4 mm diameter Teflon tube. This would be best for TPU filaments. v2.35: The temperature rise softened the PLA filament, and the extruder delivery failure was observed. The air hole was opened and cooled. v2.36: v2.35 was too close to the heat sink of the extruder and the exhaust heat was defective. Minor change. PTFE tube too close to extruder. Therefore it melts. Stop sending filaments. It took me half a year to notice this problem. You can fix it with this cover. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3042175 v2.40: Added support for additional cooling fans, and The hit to the stepping motor was reinforced. cooling fan details. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3692742 v2.43: The strength dropped because of the big hole. I used to block the hole and cool the stepper motor. v2.44: The screw was prevented from falling when it was removed. v3.00: (Caution) The design is completely different so people who don't know can not use it. In order to suppress the thermal deformation due to the filament feeding, I decided to support the M3 screw with two. In addition, the print direction is rotated 90 degrees to suppress the deformation of the hole. From this time, production with PLA is possible. Cetus itself manufactures important parts of Cetus internally. As durability is unknown, it is under test. I think that forced air cooling with a double fan is essential. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3692742 As a defect when making it to PLA, it is necessary to remove this guide at the time of filament detachment. v3.01: I tried to put a PTFE tube of 3 mm outer diameter as a guide. It has the same durability as ABS. v3.02: The hole for filament insertion was reinforced with two M3 nuts, or one nylon lock nut. I think that the fragility, the ease of use and the ease of clogging reached the same level as version 2. I succeeded in supplying Cetus parts at Cetus. The recovery means when the filament is clogged is as follows. 1.Initialize and lift the head. 2.Cut the filament. 3.Loosen the 2 screw holding the filament feeder guide. you will not remove it completely. 4.Remove the nozzle with an 8 mm wrench. When the filament is pulled out of the nozzle, go to # 14. 5.Remove the filament feeder guide. 6.Check nozzle and filament feeder guides. This check is very important, but too detailed and can not be described. 7.Attach the nozzle without attaching the filament feeder guide. 8.Warm the nozzle and pull out the filament with pliers. 9.If the filament can not be removed, disassemble the nozzle. 10.Replace the PTFE tube (12 mm length) inside the nozzle. 11.Fix the stainless steel tube so that it will not be crushed by a vise. 12.Remove the nozzle with an 8 mm wrench. 13.Push a 2.8 mm drill into the stainless steel tube by hand and take the filament and PTFE tube. 14.Assemble it at the end. I don't think it's an end-user's job, but in an emergency it can't be helped. Lastly, one important thing. The heater and sensor are sloppy. Subtly depress this. It is not fixed. Don't push too much. If you do not understand this, don't touch Cetus. It is very disappointing that when the room temperature approaches 30 degrees Celsius, the filament feeder guide is deformed and can not hold the bearing. As a result, I recommend making with ABS filament. There is no trouble at all and it is very nice to use. I think the durability will exceed one year. Although developed for MK2, there is an example where MK2 has a feeder for MK1. Introducing the feeder for MK1. Cetus 3D MK1 Filament Feeder Guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3525292