Closing cam shim

thingiverse

I used a cam to repair the door on my Kenmore Refrigerator Model 106.72003010. The right-hand door would pop and click while opening and closing, and it wouldn't close by itself anymore. After some research, I bought a new closing cam, part number WP67003638 or WP67003639 (mine was gray, but I couldn't find the part number now). A Phillips screw and three self-tapping metal screws hold the top hinge in place. When that's removed, the door lifts right off. I pulled out the old cam and it didn't look damaged at all. Swapping in the new part and reassembling did not fix the problem, so I took it apart again to take a closer look. The closing cam part fits into a socket in the door with a matching cam to ride against the closing cam. On my door, the entire socket was rotating within the door. The expanding foam seemed to be all that was originally keeping it in place. While the closing cam itself can be replaced, the socket is part of the door and cannot be replaced individually. And buying a new door would cost about half the price of the whole refrigerator! I managed to remove, clean, and reinstall the socket with a generous application of gorilla glue. However, to keep the cam from twisting the socket while the glue dried, I printed this shim to lift the door just enough for the cams to avoid contact. When in place, the door is lifted by the height of the cam, and doesn't close automatically anymore. Once the glue was fully cured, I slipped out the cam and the door works like new again. It's probably even better than new, since gorilla glue should hold the socket more securely than the original insulating foam did. The problem got solved, and my 3D printer cost has been completely justified! Print Settings: Printer: Monoprice Architect Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: .25mm Infill: 90 How I Designed This: I drew this up quickly on Tinkercad.