Collapsible Dark Saber (aka Mandolorian/Sabine Wren)

thingiverse

This is my take on the Mandalorian Light Saber found by Sabine Wren in Star Wars Rebels. Dec 25, 2020 - <i> I recently saw the dark saber in The Mandolorian and noticed that it had gone though a make over since it first appeared Rebels. SO bear in mind that this model is based on the Cartoon version.</i> Although It is inspired by the original collapsing light saber by 3DPRITNINGWORLD, I designed the entire thing. My other hilts use the original blade. This one does not. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3606120 <b>How to print the collapsible blade</b> Because this saber has a rectangular blade, I was unable to use the usual cylindrical/conical blades. I had to design a custom blade for this one. Printing the blades will be the most challenging part. - Blade segments 1-4 are designed to printed with a 0.8 nozzle in "spiral" mode, top and bottom thickness set to 0 (no need to change infill, as the spiral setting will ignore infill). - Blade segment 5 is meant to be printed normally (not "spiral") because it is so thin. You can, however, leave your 0.8 nozzle on for this, just make sure to turn "top and bottom" back on and use 20% infill. - Printer calibration is a HUGE factor in this print. Over/Under extrusion will cause your walls to be too thick/thin. Too thick and the blades will not extend fully (or at all) and too thin, and one segment will slide right through the other segment. If your bed leveling is too tight, you will have "elephant foot" squishing at the bottom, which will require filing/sanding. If bed leveling is too loose, your blade segments might break off the bed the higher up your printer goes. - When sanding/filing blade segment 5 (thinnest one) be VERY careful not to over sand. Just sand the thick end a tiny bit, then test it in Segment 4. Do this until it fits and extends to your liking. <b>How to print the hilt</b> The hilt should be printed with normal settings and what ever nozzle you normally use (probably 0.4). These are all very straight-forward prints. Only Hilt 1 needs supports, as you will see. Use what ever support settings you usually use, however, I do recommend changing the Z distance (the space between the support and the object) to 0.4. Cura defaults (usually) to 0.2. I had a hard time getting the support of my prototype when it was at 0.2, but at 0.4 it came right off and the print still looked fine. <b>How to Assemble</b> - Match the angled parts of Hilt 1 and Hilt Cover and glue Hilt 1 Snugly into the Cover. - Next, Glue Hilt 2 inside Hilt Cover making sure it is slid up to and against Hilt 1. Make sure the "button" on the front of Hilt 2 faces Out on the Cover. See pictures. - Now insert the assembled blade all the way into the exposed end of Hilt 2. Be sure to get the orientation correct as it is very easy to confuse which side is the "front". See pictures. - Finally, orient Hilt 3 according to the pictures and glue it into the remaining space of Hilt Cover, again, pushed tight against Hilt 2. This is the only hilt I have designed where you cannot remove the blade after assembly. It was quite difficult to come up with a way to make Hilt 3 detatch to allow access to the blade. So with this in mind, don't break the blade. ------Edit December 5, 2020 Finally able to Eryone Silver PLA again, so I decided to do a reprint. I printed the blade in eSun PLA+ Black, but with a 0.4 nozzle, 2 walls, and it came out fine. Just FYI.