Complete Rostock Max V3 E3D Hotend Assembly

thingiverse

This is a remix/consolidation of everything I used to create the pictured hotend. The integrated effector and HE280 are not my design. The clip-on light ring, however, is my design. Effector source/credit: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1284511 HE280 board cover credit: seemecnc github Here's the BOM: (5) M3 x 20mm cap screws (2) M3 nuts (6) #4-24 3/4" Machine Screws (3) #6-32 1/2" Machine Screws (1) E3D Complete Bowden Assy (3) Nylon ball arms (1) HE280 Accelerometer board (3) BFB0312HA-A Brushless DC Box Fans (layer fans) (1) 80mm LED ring (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015Z7B42A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (3) M3 6mm cap screws (1) rostock_max_effectorplatform-_fan_shroud_combo_alt printed in Nylon-X (1) light_ring_1.0 Rev D_repaired printed in Nylon-X (1) HE280 Assembly - 71258 Cover for Mount for HE280 PCB-1 printed in clear Form 2 resin (available here: https://www.3dprinteddebris.com/listing/499879672/rostock-max-v3-clearfrosted-pcb-top) I'm still waiting on the light ring to arrive to mount it up, so I left the 12VDC accesory line hanging in the wind for now. 5 bucks says I get shocked before the part arrives. Going forward, I'm going to add a latching switch on top of the PCB cover (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ45WV3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and wire it to the LED ring so I can turn it on and off. UPDATE 2/27/17: Installed light ring and switch. It's a little dimmer than I would have hoped, but it gets the job done. I wound up leaving the switch to float in the open so that I can switch it off mid-print without disturbing the hotend. : This mod is effective, looks cool (in my opinion) and is worth the time/cash invested in terms of improvement in print quality. Print Settings Printer Brand: SeeMeCNC Printer: Rostock MAX BYOE Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: .2 Infill: 100