Copymaster 3D 500 brace bars

thingiverse

Brace bars for the Copymaster 3D 500. Bars are offset outboard to avoid getting in the way of the Z axis. Other parts required: 2no. 800mm lengths of 2020 aluminium extrusion. 18no. M4 x 8mm socket cap screws. 18no. M4 T nuts. The bars are at 30 degrees from the vertical so cut the ends at 30 degrees. I like this printer due to its build volume and direct drive extruder however here are some handy tips for Copymaster 3d 500: For better surface finish when using PLA modify the fan shroud on the printer head so no air blows on the part being printed. You can't just turn it off because the same fan cools the extruder. I use a glass bed with 3DLAC, the bed heater only covers the centre of the build area on the 500 so I use a higher bed temperature than I do on my other printers, 50 degrees seems to work ok so far for PLA. I don't route the filament through the thing that senses when filament runs out as I think it is mounted too close to the spool. I pop an offcut of filament in it to fool the controller. I intend to mount the spool holder much higher so I can use the detector. I use simplify3d instead of the supplied software. My start script (jerk turned down because of the heavy bed moving. If using glass do not mount a fixing clip within 165mm of the front left corner, everywhere else on the front and back edge fine): G28 ; home all axes M205 X10 Y10 ; jerk G1 Z5 F3000 ; lift G1 X20 Y2 F1500 ; avoid binder clips G1 Z0.2 F3000 ; get ready to prime G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance G1 X120 E10 F600 ; prime nozzle G1 X150 F5000 ; quick wipe My end script: G28 X0 ; home x axis G1 Y450 F1500 ; move bed to front M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan M104 S0 ; turn off extruder M140 S0 ; turn off bed M84 ; disable motors Edit: there is so little info out there on this printer that I have added my fff file in case it helps anyone, I am pleased with the results I am getting with these settings, the brace bars and extruder fan mod. If your printer randomly cuts out occasionally (no power and reboots) it may be where the power supply cable plugs in to the controller circuit board. It was under warranty but I just soldered the wires direct to the socket pins on the circuit board after cutting away some of the shrouding. Edit2: added separate left and right top brace stl files although untested. Edit3: added a filament clip for 2020 section which means you can have the filament detached from the spool and near the extruder ready for swapping over when it is up to temperature.