COREXY XL Printer (X3D XL COREXY by Unix)

thingiverse

Remix of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:730199 Made some improvements/changes and will add anything new here. Modified box dwg to use 12mm (11/32") plywood, removed LCD window and bolt slots. outside box dimensions are 408mm W x 351mm D x 386 H, print area 200mm x 200mm x 213mm Z. Center carriage - 4mm hole to install PFTE tube from hob-bolt into J-head to hold flexible filament from bending, strengthened motor mount. Left and Right carriage - modified to allow 8mm rod go in deeper, but now the pair of X 8mm rods needs to be longer (328mm long on XL box) also removed the rib that separated the pair of bearings, and I just put a dab of RTV silicone on it, I wasted a lot of time sanding the original one off trying to get it to fit right extruder - spring mount modified to fit the above center carriage. extruder arm - added a cup to hold PFTE tube in place, resized width for it to center bearing over filament better. bracket - a pair of these to hold LCD frame on edge of 12mm plywood Moved Arduino/RAMPS and power supply to back of box, easier to clean debris in box and looks nicer. Personal preference, put it wherever you want! redesigned the filament spool holder, 31mm diameter open pulley.scad file with free OpenSCAD where you can customize its size for nice tight fit over bearing To Do make a different LCD frame bracket to hold higher off top edge of 12mm plywood or install longer ribbon cable to bring to front edge. adjustable Z end switch flag enclosure for Arduino/RAMPS with fan mount. adjustable spring tensioner on filament feed I bought the electronics from http://www.sainsmart.com/3d-printing/3d-printkits.html Print Settings Printer: DIY CoreXY Resolution: .25 to .35 Notes: 3+ perimeter, would be a good idea to print hotend mounts in ABS How I Designed This software Use DesignSpark Mechanical for .rsdoc files QCAD 123d Design Notes Advice Print all idle pulleys instead, the GT2 belt does not ride smooth on the printed teeth pulleys. Side cut outs are optional on case, or make plexiglass windows to keep heat in box for printing ABS. Pros/Cons Pros Easier for first time builders Belt on Z table lowers cost, but also slips or jumps if it hits the table due to newbie errors, but better than breaking the glass. Wood absorbs vibrations, quieter than aluminum or plastic. Cons Belt on Z, can slip or stretch, only good for going down, inconsistent going up. 8mm rods are not perfect, making nozzle gap from print surface inconsistent. Linear bearings do not ride smooth, could do bushings instead. Possible Improvements Leadscrew on Z table, slow, strong and consistent (careful, will break glass tables) lighter/smaller extrusion stepper motor V-Slot rails instead of 8mm rods and Linear bearings, I had nothing but trouble with Linear bearings binding and having too much play.