CR 10 S Enclosure - metal frame cabinet

thingiverse

CR 10 S ENCLOSURE METAL FRAME CABINET See also: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233857 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230158 SQUARE PIPE 40X40X1.5mm STANDARD CR 10 S - No alteration to original - out of the box design! UPDATE 31 OCT 2018 Since it is warm like in an oven - inside the enclosure, I will find a solution to have the spool move in; it will make obsolete the use of a spool enclosure and will keep the filament warm and dry! Probably only the spools made of recycled PLA will need to be keep out, since it can reach the PLA - plastic deformation temperature in the enclosure! Coming soon! Stay tuned! 28 OCT I mounted a thermometer inside of my print enclosure: during a print with ABS - bed set to 100C on the enclosure temperature was 68C (update 31 OCT). During ASA - bed set to 110C it it was 72C (update 29 OCT). And my ABS print - GREAT! In case you wonder, the enclosure walls are made of: - one layer of 4mm poly-carbonate (two walls) - two layers of 20mm - Extruded Polystyrene (40mm total) - one layer of 4mm poly-carbonate (two walls) So... a thickness about 48mm - great sound and heat barrier! Exception the side window - two layers of 4mm Plexiglas - with a gap of 40mm between them. https://www.amazon.co.uk/slp/4mm-polycarbonate-sheet/mptaukczdx9a3yh https://www.greenbuildingsolutions.org/blog/performance-across-the-board/ 25 OCT ! WAW! Print was great, noise reduction... I miss the noise my printer use do do! :) Inside is warm as an oven. I don't know how the printers with electronics mounted on frame, survive...the manufacturers say that is ok to have your printer in an enclose cabinet?!? The life of a printer what have to work on those conditions is seriously reduced! To have the electronics and the power source on same location - as the printer... a fire hazard! 24 OCT My new incubator! I Fill up the frame with extruded foam - 2X20mm ( I do not find 40mm!) and add a new layer of poly-carbonate (4mm & two walls) - on the inside. Noise and heat lost... reduce to minimum! And finally... a window... 4mm Plexiglas... I have two layers... the outside one, a lite to small, however it not bother me! I will see if any improvement on reduced time for heat bed... and print quality! And of coure the first print, the calibration gouges, to see how printer perform under the new conditions!! 9TH OCT The enclosure manage to keep an environment print - friendly, took 28 - 30 minutes to heat and start the print process - to 110 Celsius. I am currently printing on ASA with 245C nozzle and 110C bed. I find out a little trick... is faster to jump start your printer...if you just from settings - have your printer on warm up faze... with 1-2 degree above your target, on both - bed and nozzle ! It will warm faster than the regular - print part - warm up! Then, when the temperature was reached, start to print the part... and voila... in less than one minute - print process start! I do not know if this will work for everyone, however, it work for me! And if your printer take too long to worm up... just cover the print bed with two sheets of paper A4. It will worm up faster. Remove them when print process start! However, is not a guaranty for the quality of the adhesion of part to the print bed! Warning ! This is a fire hazard! RECOMMENDATION : If you build the cabinet, best position for control box support is below the cable window - on my build is below filament window! If you consider to buy in the future - a bigger printer, make sure the space bellow can accommodate it... therefore you will have an enclosure already build. Have already the hinges weld in place!!! - remaining to have the door frame made when you decide to upgrade to a bigger printer! See pictures of my frame - do not weld - lower section - front and left middle - profile! Build the filament and cable window also! (cable window - if you have plans to buy a printer with external control box - eg. CR class) . Try to come close to the future printer size/shape you may buy !!! 7th OCT Everything looks fine! The enclosure manage to keep an environment print - friendly, took 13-14 minutes to heat and start the print process - to 90 Celsius. The ABS fumes are keep inside - no bad odor coming from my cabinet ! :) And a plus - noise reduction. Still frustrating not to be able to see the print process - Plexiglas update coming soon... 6th OCT Enclosure is complete, and first print in progress. I will have to replace the poly-carbonate sheet for front door with some Plexiglas, however I was curios to see how is working. Current job is on ABS ! One door seems to be ok (front door)! Measure your final location access door, to ensure the cabinet can pass!. The CR10 control box support can be made detachable in case you have problem with the build size! Some limitation on Z axis due to length of the cable. If this is a problem - X cables can be fit via " filament window" . For "filament window" I use two strips of linear brushes. 1ST OCT Frame is done. And already painted! Unfortunately I weld the hinges for the front door on the "diamond" (contact surface) of the 2nd door. Therefore I will have only one door! :) So... if you want the 2nd door, weld the hinges for the 1st door on the left side (door will become left hand door). SEPT 29 Use the design as a guide line. The filament spool is mounted outside. Same goes for the controller. I use this type of profile since I have some left from other project. Feel free to use different profile size; if so... recalculate accordingly! 4 X 1500 6 X 620 11 X 640 4 X 540 6 X 650 2 X 720 1 X 180 2 X 310 1 X 160 Use metal hinges to connect the doors. Use poly-carbonate sheet to make the enclosure. Use wheels for mobility. Fell free to support my projects! https://pinshape.com/items/44114-3d-printed-cr-10-s-enclosure