CR-10 S4 Frame Braces

thingiverse

Braces for the Creality CR-10 S4 and for the back of the printer since I wanted to place it there rather in the front of the printer. Some inspiration from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2731263 by junaling, Thanks!. This was also an upgrade in order to sync the dual z-axis lead screws, that was done using 2 new lead screws 600mm long TR8x4 (better resolution for the z-axis) (yes I will cut them some day..) and 2 anti backlash nuts that comes with the screws https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-T8-100-200-300-400-600mm-8mm-Lead-Screw-with-Nut-Kit/32832245184.html?spm=2114.search0104.8.7.6fa94a34x7cMHX&transAbTest=ae803_3. I reused the flanged upper ball bearings and the original lid for the bearings. And I used two 30 tooth GT-2 timing pulley bore 8mm https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-Alumium-GT2-30-teeth-Timing-Pulley-Bore-5mm-8mm-6-35mm-for-width-6mm-belt/32795513753.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.wRxK9y. Then I could use a 976mm long GT2 closed loop timing belt https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-lot-GT2-900-930-976-closed-loop-rubber-2GT-timing-belt-2GT-900-930-976/32843219839.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.wRxK9y and it fits perfectly between the lead screws. OBS! this is for the S4 printer, I dont know the distance or timing pulleys required for the S3 or S5! I then used two carbon fiber pipes (10mm OD, 8mm ID) about 534mm long (since it depends on how square your frame is) and glued the link arm with epoxi resin. Support was only used for the link arm. Hope that it will attract someone and please show if you also used this setup!