CR-10 S5 Bed Weight Loss Program! [A guide on how to improve performance by cutting weight]

CR-10 S5 Bed Weight Loss Program! [A guide on how to improve performance by cutting weight]

thingiverse

This is how I cut 5lbs 14oz [2.66KG] from the Y axis on my CR-10 S5. This is all about improving reliability and performance! You will need: - Naptha, pre-cleano, or wax and grease remover - A build surface sheet like [this one](https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/th3d-ezmat-build-surface/) - Spot putty like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-Brand-Company-651-Glazingspot/dp/B002Q1AHP4) Look at the weight savings! ![bedweight](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/siNBR5Dt64WqjGs/preview) First I got rid of the glass, this left me a metal bed with screws recessed into it. ![bed1](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/sx6fMEZJKTB7D2A/preview) I had to do something about the holes for the screws and choose to use Bondo Spot Putty. This will be removable easily with a screwdriver to dig it out in case I ever need to get to these screws again. I considered epoxy but that would be permanent. ![putty](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/pXAkWPbCRexQw8x/preview) First though, we need some prep. Make sure your machine is off and cool, and do this in a well ventilated area. Both the putty and the pre-cleaner are flammable! I used some 240 grit sandpaper to prep the screw heads and holes. Don't want the putty to just fall out! ![prep](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/QLzNKANrsRGmkkG/preview) With the holes sanded out I wiped it down with Naptha. This is available at most hardware stores. It's also sold as wax and grease remover in the paint section. This will remove the grit and grease leaving a nice surface to putty over. Next apply the putty. Keep it thin. I used some card stock paper to smooth it over. You want it to be a bit over the bed surface so you can sand it flat later and have no low spots on the bed when done. ![filldetail](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/gb2Pdk48kKe4zTm/preview) ![fill](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/3BKtQeaPWtP2MoQ/preview) With the holes filled give it a 4 hours to cure. Once it's all turned to the lighter shade and fully cured you can start to sand it down flat. Use a sanding block here! Can just be a piece of wood the with sandpaper wrapped around it, just so you stay flat. ![sandingblock](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/RDjx4bKEtG7RqLM/preview) ![sanding](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/mD2CDsCppNoESpR/preview) With that done clean it one more time with warm water and clean towels to remove the sanding dirt. With it all sanded flat and clean you can apply the build sheet over the metal. This will provide a durable easy to use surface for your prints to bond to that's easy to clean and long lasting. When putting down such a large sheet start by peeling one edge of the paper off the back just about 2 inches. ![sheetstart](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/ST9NpKfS7Bjoa9c/preview) Apply this along the back edge lining it up carefully. Then slowly pull the backing out from under the build sheet while using your hand to work it down flat with no trapped air under it. ![sheetapply](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/xQzWmEjNTcnRC7C/preview) ![moresheet](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/qBN2GbcqAFoj99S/preview) Soon you'll have a perfectly applied build surface ready for use! ![done](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/oKQCCs7wpPwgWMt/preview) With all this done you are ready to go! You can try upping your speeds now that you have much less weight to sling around during the print!

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