Creality CR-10S Pro magnetic base for hamkers's Rasperry Pi camera arm

thingiverse

This is a remix of just the base part for hamkers' awesome camera arm for mounting a Raspberry Pi camera onto a Creality CR10. As the CR-10S Pro (my printer) doesn't have the same rails for the Y-Axis, and is an all-in-one unit with a nicely sloping (30 degree) front to the steel enclosure that forms the base of the printer; I figured my best bet would be to do a remix of the base with a 30 degree sloped bottom to hold 2 magnets. You will need 2 x 20mm diameter x 10mm thick Neodymium magnets to complete this, and you will need to glue them into the holes in the base after printing (epoxy or high-viscosity cyanoacrylate). These are the magnets that I used - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0038E2KYE/ There are TWO STL files included, one for mounting the arm on the front of your printer in the bottom right-hand corner of the sloped front of the printer chassis, the other for mounting the arm in the bottom left-hand corner. When front mounting the arm, you MUST mount the block so that it is at the bottom of the front slope of the chassis of the printer and hard to the left or right (depending on which post version you used) to ensure it clears the bed levelling screws when the Y-Axis is at full forward travel. (see the photo!) You will also need a small piece of "non slip mat" to place between the base and your printer to stop it sliding, Or you can paint the 30 degree face of the part with PlastiDip or a rubber based masking fluid like I did - again this will make it grip on the front of the printer and stay steady in use. Many thanks to Hamkers for their original model (which is awesome!), and I hope someone will find this useful! ---------------- UPDATE 10 JAN 2018 Final design for the part test printed successfully, photos taken, THING info updated, and a solution found for the part sliding on the printer chassis. ------------------ UPDATE 11 JANUARY.2019 It might be possible to print this WITHOUT supports by slicing it with the 30 degree sloping face flat on the printer's bed. Also, RAFT not needed, as I have figured out the bed temperature that the black PLA I was using to print it likes, and my bed adhesion problems for it have gone away.