custom mouse for G305 pcb practice

thingiverse

Edit: 14/11/2019 Tried another test print this time in abs with 2 perimeters no infill with the shell with the cut outs for the front of the pcb and the left click completely cleared the encoder... not sure but I may have had infill turned on last print and that may have made the clicks a little more rigid but that wouldn't explain why this print clears the encoder and the last didn't... will update again when I've sussed this out. So atm getting this to work without touching it up with a soldering iron and having it look nice may just be down to how it's printed ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ but yeah will update when I figure anything out. Edit: 31/10/2019 I'm really sorry to say but I just received a G305 to make this and it turns out I missed a completely obvious overlap, the left mouse button intersects the encoder so what I've had to do is gauge a pocket with a soldering iron where the encoder lifts the mouse button. It works but it's delicate work and it's easy to screw up and it may leave an artifact on the surface of that button aaaaaaaaand the scroll wheel I used as a reference was slightly out of place so in actuality the back part of the scroll wheel hole needs a little filing:/ so I apologize to anyone who actually printed this but I'll just leave it up for anyone curious to have a nosy but also I'll leave it up because it does work it's just a bit jank to make work which isn't everyone's cuppa. I included a few pics of the solder cuts I made to fit it and the surface scarring as a result (bare in mind this is a test shell which I rushed to see how far I could cut for it to work. Anyway lessons learned, take my time. I'll get round to making another mouse for the G305 pcb at some point which I look forward to doing properly :P This started out as me playing with fusion 360's sculpt tools. Now I gotta mouse I don't particularly love or hate. The front's a bit scuffed as I wasn't paying attention when increasing the width of the shell at the beginning and I've done too much to it since so I can't edit that other than include a version of the top shell that has the part where the pcb intersects cut out. If you've got a dremel or soldering iron it would probably look better if you printed the top shell without the cut outs and just diy those little parts afterwards. Instructions: print all parts on the sides that are flat except the top shell - print that part on around abouts a 60-65 degree angle with supports, the back of the shell closest to the print bed. Print it flat at your own risk, I just haven't tried it and I don't think it would look as nice. Everything should fit together in an intuitive way, just reference the first image and also the dpi flex rod's chamfered end inserts into the top shell. That should be all off the top of my head. Oh yeah the platforms that connect to the stand will need gluing, I used adhesive. Everything else clicks in nicely together. I also just realized I should have added a support to the front of the pcb, I'll add that in later. From experience it's no biggie though. Edit: totally forgot, it uses the same screws in the G305, the three base screws are the same as the base screws on the G305 and the internal screws are all the same, the two screws for the side buttons are the same width as all the screws in the G305 just some have different sized heads. Another edit: important information I left out, you need to desolder M1 and M2, feed the connecting wires through the underside of the main PCB, solder them back, then hot glue them in place where the two front sets of three holes are. I can update this with pics if you need just message me or comment on this.