Customizable GPU shroud for Phanteks Shift case

Customizable GPU shroud for Phanteks Shift case

thingiverse

Update: I upgraded my ASRock Z370 motherboard to an ASRock Z390 due to some PCI-E bus issues. The new motherboard shifted the M.2 SSD towards the backplate, so I had to adjust the shroud design accordingly. I have included both designs, as well as a clean design with no SSD under the motherboard. Original: My goal with this design was to create a quiet and powerful 4K gaming PC in a small package, and not have to worry about the maintenance, risk, and short component lifespan that comes with water cooling. Essentially, tons of power without compromise. This print helped get me there. The design was modeled on the Zotac GTX 1080 AMP Extreme with the factory fans removed. I have not tried to customize the print design for a different brand of graphics card, but even if it doesn’t fit, hopefully the design elements can be used to make a shroud that can work for you. I do not know if the 1080ti version has the same mount screw locations. Please comment if you have a 1080ti version and can fit this print. Before I talk about my final thermal results, I need to mention that I removed a previously-applied aftermarket thermal paste and installed the Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad on the GPU. I don’t recommend it, but if you need an extra 5 degrees of thermal headroom, it’ll do that. Ymmv. The downside is I may break the silicone off the circuit board if I ever remove the heatsink from the circuit board. When removed from the case and running the Heaven benchmark as well as taxing my CPU, my max GPU temp was 64 degrees with the Noctua NF-A12x25 fan spinning at 1926RPM and core clock at 1961.5 MHz. Inside the case, I was getting between 59 and 62 degrees. My three 140mm Noiseblocker Intake/Exhaust fans were only spinning at 67%. If I bump the system fans up to 100%, it’ll only drop the GPU temp another 2 degrees, so not worth the extra noise. Altogether, this system is very quiet for the performance I am getting out of it. I also attached a screenshot of my GTX 1080 running Furmark at 2034 MHz, and never breaking 71 degrees. That’s bonkers inside this case, but shows liquid cooling is unnecessary in the Phanteks Shift case if you have the right design software, 3D printer, and time. This design represents hundreds of hours in designing and redesigning, and many 24-hr+ test prints to get it just right. In the Furmark graph, that sharp levelling-off of the temperature is the liquid metalpad at work. Normal thermal paste will have a gradual curve. I have put my printer settings below. For best results when printing in PETG, follow the settings. If using PLA, whatever normal settings you usually use should work fine, but I don’t recommend PLA in this high temp environment. For easier cleanup, it is essential to set the Shell Top/Bottom Pattern to “Zig Zag” instead of the default “Lines”, and enable “Print Thin Walls”. The final thing you should do in the slicer is block supports at the locations in the picture provided. The Screw Plugs are used for the two Middle Screws. If you don’t select “Print Thin Walls”, the hole that is made may not print properly to work with these screw hole plugs. Alternately, I’ve used sound deadening material to cover the two middle holes. The two far-end holes do not need covering as they are sealed-off from the fan pressure airflow. The two fan-side screw holes need drilled out through the fan baffle using a 7/64” drill bit.. There are two small pilot cups to locate the drill bit. I also had to add another spare motherboard standoff between the GPU support bracket and where it bolts to the case mid-way in order to increase clearance, but adding clearance ensured I was able to maximize airflow. Recommended cleanup tools are a screwdriver (pictured) for the ssd exhaust vent, a metal scraper to release the roots of the supports, and pliers that are curved to one side to get the messy leftovers. Overall, this is a MUCH improved version as far as cleanup goes. If you’ve previously printed an earlier version, I’m not sure if I’d recommend disassembling your computer to install this version if what you have works for your needs. My main intent with this version was to make print cleanup easier.

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