Customizable threaded scupper plugs

Customizable threaded scupper plugs

thingiverse

***UPDATE 26DEC 2015: Replaced .scad file with version 1.7 that now has several additions. GoPro connector from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62800 was hacked in. Top and bottom bevel options are now available. The "scoop" bottom style is experimental for future use in the water jet drive propulsion system. ***UPDATE 25 DEC 2015: Replaced .scad file with version 1.4 that now includes fishing pole holder option. ***UPDATE 24 DEC 2015: Replaced .scad file with version 1.3. Some variable names have changed, more options available and improvements have been made. Goal: To create threaded scupper plugs for my Pelican Boost 100 kayak. Why? To keep my butt from getting wet and to potentially use the scupper holes as mount point for attachments like gopro camera mount, electric motor mount, fish rod or paddle holder, and etc. Status: This currently a work-in-progress, files maybe changed and/or added. This is my first attempt at using the thingiverse customizer. Using anything other than the low default detail may cause the customizer script to time-out. I recommend running this in openSCAD for final rendering at high detail before exporting to .stl and printing. Plugs that will work for the front scupper holes of my Pelican Boost 100 kayak. They can be recreated by using the following vars: Scuppers_bolt__Pelican_B100_front_top.stl plug_length = 32; plug_detail = 360; thread_detail = 8; top_diameter = 26; top_style = "bolt"; top_thread_length = 15; top_thread_diameter = 22; top_thread_pitch = 4; bottom_diameter = 38; bottom_style = "slot"; slot_size = 2; Scuppers_nut_Pelican_B100_front_bottom.stl plug_length = 26; plug_detail = 360; thread_detail = 8; top_diameter = 26; top_style = "nut"; top_thread_length = 16; top_thread_diameter = 22.5; top_thread_pitch = 4; bottom_diameter = 38; bottom_style = "slot"; slot_size = 2; Note: I have found that it is best to add about .5 to the thread diameter of the bolt to create a matching nut. You may find that your printer / plastic / temperature may require an adjustment to this. The pole holder uses the nut above. It can be recreated with: Pelican_front_pole_holder.stl plug_length = 33; plug_detail = 360; thread_detail = 8; top_diameter = 39; top_style = "pole_holder"; bottom_diameter = 26; bottom_style = "bolt"; bottom_thread_length = 15; bottom_thread_diameter = 22; bottom_thread_pitch = 4; pole_holder_length = 115; pole_holder_outer_diameter = 40; pole_holder_inner_diameter = 28; pole_holder_base_diameter = 80; Rear plugs that self tread in the rear holes of a Pelican Boost 100 kayak can be recreated with: Pelican_rear_top_bolt.stl plug_length = 32; plug_detail = 360; thread_detail = 8; top_diameter = 23; top_style = "bolt"; top_thread_length = 15; top_thread_diameter = 22.5; top_thread_pitch = 5; bottom_diameter = 38; bottom_style = "slot"; slot_size = 2; Print Settings Printer Brand: Robo 3D Printer: R1 ABS + PLA Model Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: Medium .2mm Infill: 10% to 20% Notes: I have not test printed hook scupper end yet but you will need supports for that. You will also need supports for the pole holder base. Other parts can be printed without supports.

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