D-Bot CoreXY Printer with Extra Large 17"X17" Build Plate

thingiverse

EDIT 10/19/2018: If you have any questions because I didn't update the BOM and some of the build instructions are only covered in this text go ahead and add me on Facebook. You can find me here. Just pop me a message and I'll be glad to help! https://www.facebook.com/amadon.faul ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- EDIT 2/7/2018 Keep in mind that the Bill of Materials and build guide are just copies of the same thing from the original D-bot CoreXY Thing. I didn't edit them or add any additional parts. So keep that in mind when ordering. Especially the V-slot rails. You will need more than the guide says. Probably about half a meter of 20x40 extra should cover it. This is the extruder it's designed to use, but you could use the standard D-bot CoreXY bowden if you wanted to. Just be sure to print the right mounting plate for the X carriage. The holes are different on mine to fit this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:760444 EDIT 2/1/2018 Oh. I forgot to mention. For some reason my X axis is reversed and I can't figure out why. So if you use my firmware you will have to mirror all non-symmetrical parts in your slicer. If you solve this let me know how! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There will be more information added later, but for now you can use the Sketchup model to figure almost everything out. All V-slot rails are correct length in the model and the ones laid off to the side are the best combination I found for the cuts with as little waste as possible. I think the second rail in the front of the build plate that I added is NOT included in the rails layout off to the side. So make sure you account for that rail when ordering V-slot. Also you will need more rollers and screws etc for the front rail on the bed. I HIGHLY recommend you use the added rail in the front. The bed is VERY heavy so you will need to order Z axis steppers with gear boxes on them. These are the steppers I used. https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Ship-14-1-Planetary-Gearbox-High-Torque-Nema-17-Stepper-CNC-Robot-3D-Printer/331601658649?epid=10012076645&hash=item4d34ffc319:g:dxgAAOSwDNdVmx48 I have included my Marlin firmware in the files and it should be pre-calibrated. It's set up for dual extruders even though there is only 1 so you will have to put a dummy thermister on extruder 2 pins or edit it to board type 33 and number of extruders 1 in configuration.h. The 4 heated beds are wired in pairs. Put two beds on each power supply in parallel. For the bed temperature thermister you will need to wire 4 of them in series parallel. So put two in series with each other and the other two in series with each other. Then connect the two sets in parallel with each other so the resulting resistance is 100K. Then hook that to the bed temp pins on your Ramps board. If you don't understand this look at this schematic but ignore the values. All 4 would be 100K ohms. https://sub.allaboutcircuits.com/images/00123.png When your Ramps reads the bed temperature it's not really reading each one and making sure they are all the same. it's reading the AVERAGE temperature of all 4. So be warned. If your heaters are not perfectly identical (they won't be) you may have slight variation of temp on your bed. It's pretty close though and the thick 1/4" glass will even out the heat if you let it sit for a bit and warm up. You will need two solid state relays because you will be using two separate power supplies to power the bed heaters in pairs. Wire the inputs of the relays both to the 12V bed terminals on your Ramps together. So it turns both relays on and off at the same time. I'm sure there will be lots of questions but those are the main differences between this and the regular D-bot. It's been quite a while since I built mine and some of the files might be different versions of the same thing. You would really have the best luck if you opened the Sketchup model and just exported all your own STL files as those are probably all the final design. But if you can't do that I THINK the files I uploaded are complete. Message me if you have any questions. If you post a comment I will probably miss it or not see it for a long time, so message me. Or look me up on Facebook. My name is Amadon Faul.