Dan A4 SFX (V4+) CPU & GPU Spacer (+16mm) for coolers up to 64mm or extra GPU clearance

thingiverse

# HEADS UP, I WILL BE TAKING MY MODELS DOWN SOON, THANKS TO THINGIVERSE TOMFOOLERY MESSING WITH LINKS, ETC This will only work on Dan A4 SFX V4 or newer as it requires the threaded holes on the side to be mounted, along with the pins and clips. I needed more clearance for a larger cooler than it fits in this case (Thermalright AXP 100 full copper + noctua 120mm fan for a Ryzen 3900x), initially I had built a window with an spaced center to fit it in, but this solution allows me to "seal" it better and reuse the original cover. This theoretically increases the volume or your case to 8.1L approximately for 1 side. It's actually less because we should be counting the internal volume, but I don't want to do the math. There are some spacers in thingiverse but they rely on the original clips to mount, which works for older versions of the Dan A4 and are mostly for the GPU side. This model uses the V4+ threaded holes to mount the spacer on the side (you'll need some M3x16 screws), the under-lip mounts to the original mounting points, then you mount the aluminum cover on top (remove clips from case and install in spacer) which will be held by the pins AND the under-lip is fastened to the spacer. I'm using this set of M3 bolts for a bunch of projects, including this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K6NNYZ8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=ecoreng-20&linkId=be544a3cc1caf081a94bcda9cb052592&language=en_US This model doesn't require supports to print when you print it under-lip side up (countersunk holes may sag a little bit, but they should be fine). Technically you should print in PETG or better, but you may get away with PLA, I didn't test it. The model is split in 2 parts for easier printing. THIS IS IMPORTANT!!! Be sure to have your printer properly calibrated. A CALIBRATION CUBE MAY NOT BE enough to print accurate LONG parts. My calibration cubes were spot on initially but I was still off by 0.5-1mm when printing long pieces. Try and do a 150mm squared cross in XY axis and calibrate that way before attempting to print this. Also I shouldn't have to say it, but bed level should be spot on. Please note that depending on your printer's accuracy you may get more or less gap between the part. The design uses a 0.2mm gap between both front and back pieces. If you can't live with this, scale it in the proper axis to get less that 0.2mm gap. If your gap is larger than 0.2mm, calibrate your printer. Update 2020-08-21 - Added GPU side for +16mm clearance.